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RABBIT m CAVY 
CULTURE 



COMPLETE AND OFFICIAL 
STANDARDS 



By the late W. F. Roth, M.D. 

and 

Charles T. Coraman 



Rabbit and Cavy 
Culture 



A Complete and Official Standard 
of All the Rabbits and Cavies 



BY 
THE LATE W. F. ROTH, M. D. 



and" 



CHARLES T. CORNMAN 



This book has been adopted by the National Pet Stock 
Association of America and the New Zealand Red 
Hare Club of America, as their official Standard. 



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Copyright 1914 
By the 

:tem publishing co. 

Sellersville, Pa. 

Revised Edition 

Copyright 1916 

By the 

ITEM PUBLISHING CO. 

Gellersville, Pa. 



©CU431771 



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Contents 



Page 

Foreword 7 

Rabbit and Cavy Culture 11 

The Flemish Giant 16 

The English Lop Ear 27 

French Lop 33 

Domestic Rabbits 3 

Utility Rabbits 33 

The Dutch Rabbit 34 

The Angora Rabbit 39 

The Himalayan 44 

Silver Grey 51 

Silver Fawn, Silver Brown and Silver Blue 52 

The English Rabbit 55 

The Polish 59 

Black and Tan • 60 

The Havanna Rabbit 63 

The Imperial Rabbit 64 

Self s 65 

The ISew Zealand Red Hares 66 

The New Zealand Red Rabbit 66 

The Belgian Hare 68 

Physical Characteristics 73 

Dewlap 76 

Color 77 

Breeding for. Color 78 

Ticking 80 

Breeding for Shape 85 

Breeding, Building up a Strain and Inbreeding 87 

Pedigree 92 

Standard 92 

Study for the Standard of the Belgian Hare 98 

Standard of Points 101 

Official Belgian Hare Standard 105 

Feeding 106 

Hutches 110 

Ailments of Rabbits 115 

Preparation for the Show Room 118 

A Few Short Rules 120 

The Cavy 122 



Printed by the 

POULTRY ITEM PRESS 

Sellersville, Pa. 



PRICE 

Paper Cover $.50 

Cioth Cover 1.00 



Foreword 



DR. W. F. ROTH died September 3rd, 1911. At the time 
of his death he was under contract with the Poultry- 
Item, of Sellersville, Pa., to write a brochure on rabbits. 
The manuscript in an unfinished condition passed into 
our hands after his demise. The fact that Dr. Roth was not 
permitted to finish this work is one deeply to be regretted. He 
stood out as the greatest authority on this subject the United 
States has yet produced. It was his desire to erect this as a 
monument that would stand the test of time, but we have here 
another illustration of how man proposes and God disposes. 

In taking up the completion of this work I do so with fear 
and trembling, appreciating the difficulty in attempting t:o carry 
out the great work outlined by him. All a man can do in this 
world is to do the best he can and it is my desire that I detract 
not one jot nor tittle from the work. 

The intent of this brochure is to present the Rabbit as a 
Fancy, and an industry of utility value. More especially in the 
interest of the Belgian hare, than any of the otJier varieties. 
This means its successful breeding for profitable and useful pur- 
poses as a fancy and for food. To do this is not an easy effort 
at this time, owing to a serious blow the hare as a then possible 
industry received some years since. 

It was not, however, any fault of the hare that the "boom" 
fell flat; but it was the fault of a false understanding of a ven- 
ture of this sort by a "syndicate" of indiscreet, if not dishonest, 
promoters. The country was not yet ripe for the recognition by 
rush methods of an industry both new and foreign; and if any- 
thing, the hasty, vivid, and glaring claims were too palpably 
overwrought for intelligent absorption by a large and otherwise 
preoccupied community. America was too long and wide of ex- 
panse, with too well supplied a market of all foods which were 
then yet too honestly placed on the consumer's table, for him to 
realize that the hare was an actual necessity. In fact, he didn't 
need it. If he desired "rabbit," which was heretofore considered 
more a game than domestic food, the woods, fields and prairies 
were full of it. But things are different now. In the last decade 
the wild animal has become decidedly scarce; poultry is kept at 
a continual advance and almost prohibitive price, and the trusts 
manipulating other food stuffs have made numerous products 
very close to a luxury, notably the meats. Nor is our population 
decreasing among any class except the "400" and food we must 
have. The necessity for food at more reasonable prices becomes 
more apparent every day by reason of the present prices being 



entirely inconsistent with the wage of the moderate working 
class — that class which needs most at all times. This necessity- 
has even forced itself vaguely upon the dim vision of our mud- 
dled politicians occupying the State Legislative chairs to the 
extent that the 1907 Legislature of Pennsylvania enacted a law 
permitting the trading in slaughtered Belgians on the same foot- 
ing as fowls in the open market the year round. We should all 
be grateful for this act, for it is largely a recognition of a meat 
for public consumption that has hitherto been considered more 
game than domestic. It places the rearing of Belgians as an in- 
dustry and fancy on the same footing as that of fowls, and what 
is now before the breeder is the exercise of wisdom, prudence and 




DR. W. F. ROTH 

judicious methods essential to the education of a consuming pub- 
lic to the value of this new meat as a reasonably priced food. 
Nor should this be specially difficult, since the m.eat of the hare 
is unquestionably the most dainty and most nutritious of all 
meats. As an animal, the Belgian hare is the cleanest and most 
prolific of all animals used for food, and weight for weight, it 
costs less to produce five pounds of meat than any other. 

In France, Belgium, and to a great extent in England and 
Germany, the hare is largely the meat food of the peasant popu- 
lation, owing not only to the delicacy and nutritious value of the 
flesh, but for its economic production. 

8 



The people of some foreign countries have passed through 
sad experiences relative to their meat supply, and while we in big 
America do not anticipate grave seriousness that our supply will 
run out, it is withal a serious issue with the poor classes in our 
large cities to an extent involving millions. The daily papers 
publish thrilling stories in almost every issue, of instances where 
suffering for lack of food, and meat in particular, are causes of 
suicide, sickness, and even riots. Only the past summer upris- 
ings by the poor were held from grave results by the Govern- 
ment making itself indirectly responsible for bringing about a 
reduction in the rate, so inordinately placed by the beef trust, 
which controlled almost every pound of beef and pork handled 
in city trade. 

I cannot say how the essentials for living are manipulated in 
foreign countries— whether trusts or syndicates exist to make 
prices as they please— but if things do not change here by some 




CHARLES T. CORNMAN 

authority more powerful than the moneyed monopolizers of the 
commodities of life, we need not go among the poor of foreign 
nations to find scarcity of food. As a people we are no better 
than our foreign brethren. We may be richer— at the present 
time— but if we keep on wasting things by inordinate living, mis- 
guided economy, and without thought for next week or next 
month, we are very liable one morning to wake up hungry. 

Furthermore, statistics infomi us that millions of poor 
people throughout all civilized countries can afford to eat meat 
no oftener than once a week, and many none the year round. 
Why this should be so I cannot understand. I do know, though,* 
that the environments of the working classes in the cities are 



daily becoming more impossible in the way of securing food, 
and our country of large, free and abundant America is not by 
any means so secure within itself as lo be immune from possible 
visitations of disaster in many forms aiiecting the food supply. 
Once a nation tolerates its business integrity to become so cor- 
rupt that business men obstruct food from reaching a distribu- 
'ting market in order to sustain an inordinate high price over the 
pretext of scarcity, and allow that food (meat and vegetables) 
to rot, while people are in want and starving, it is not without 
the bounds of reason to suppose that such flagrant injustice will 
go unpunished by the God of Nations. It is a question whether 
the densest heathen in any section of the world would pursue 
such tactics to punish an enemy. 

These remarks are not inapropos to my subject under con- 
sideration, from the fact that the opportunities at hand in the 
rearing of hares make it possible to offset much of the injustice 
endured by those who need i.ieat and can't afford or secure ic; 
for these little useful, and delicate morsels of flesh can be reared 
in most any vacant space from a corner on the farm to a four 
by eight back yard or cellar of a town house. The hare is thus 
utilized by the peasant and poorer classes in foreign couni^ries, 
and there is no reason why it should not be so utilized in this 
country, and made a staple food in the same basis as beef, fowl 
and fish. 

Why all these arguments should be necessary in behalf of 
an industry that merits the closest recognition without them, is 
inaeed strange when considered from any point of view — for 
instance; during the open season for "cotton tails" thousands 
upon thousands are killed by all manner of disagreeable and un- 
sanitary means; placed on market, and sold at prices twice the 
actual value of meat per pound, considered even as a delicacy. 
Why not a far more desirable, cleanly, more readily obtainable 
at all times, more nutritious, and cheaper meat produced by the 
Belgian? Observe the menu cards of hotels, restaurants, and 
other resorts of the epicure, and note lobsters, crab, turtle, and a 
dozen other disgusting and indigestible things prepared a la 
mode at fancy prices; sirloin — 60 cents; lamb — -80 cents; veal — 
40 cents; eggs — two for a quarter, and so on through the list — 
none better, so clean, so digestible, more dainty, or so cheap as 
the unapproachable loin of a seasonably prepared hare. Why is 
this superb meat overlooked, or shall I say, neglected, for no 
reason whatever. I am sure once an intelligent acquaintance is 
had with it through the medium of judicious culinary experi- 
ment, it will become as staple as all the other meats, and the 
rearing of Belgian hares will be an industry of necessity. 

CHARLES T. CORNMAN. 
10 



Rabbit and Cavy Culture 

BY 
W. F. ROTH, M. D. and CHAS. T. CORNMAN 

The Fancy 

Breeding domestic rabbits is accomplished for two purposes 
—that of Fancy and Utility. For Fancy, implies breeding to re- 
quirements that have been formulated in accord with certain 
ideals, termed Standard; for Utility, means rearing them for 
market meat, and whatever commercial use can be made out of 
the fur and skin. I will refer to each separately. 

Careful search has failed to identify the term Fancy with 
that of rearing animals, nor that of fancier, unless a "cant name 
for sporting characters" can be so constraed. The definition of 
the word Fancy is "to imagine;" to "form in one's mind an ideal" 
of a thing "which appeals to one's liking." Another definition is 
"the faculty by which the mind forms images or representations 
of things at pleasure;" and still another "taste, conception." 
Last and perhaps as near correct as any, makes it imply to like, 
to be pleased with, particularly on account of external appear- 
ances. 

These definitions, it seems to me, are singularly applicable to 
the pact of folk who make it their object to rear animate creat- 
ures so they conform with certain pre-conceived ideals whose 
chief points are beauty, grace, usefulness, and harmonious blend- 
ing of physical characteristics into a being as near perfect as the 
imagination can conceive. This, to my mind, is a technical 
Fancy, and it is not difficult to appreciate how interesting, at- 
tractive, and profitable it can be made. 

A Fancy, too, does not stop at mere admiration, or liking, as 
I fear many follow it. One can own and admire a creature, and 
yet not be a fancier; for a Fancy, as the above definition em- 
bodies, means development, advancement, and persistent effort 
toward an objective point along defined lines. A life-time of 
useful application can be vouchsafed in it as reflected by the 
beneficial results to mankind from the efforts of pioneers in its 
various branches—the Horse; Dairy Cattle; Sheep; Swine; the 
Dog and Cat; many handsome breeds of Fowls; and just as beau- 
tiful and useful for Fancy and food, the Belgian Hare and fancy 
Rabbit. In all these departments the Fancy has assumed such 
merit that the Department of Agriculture recognized the neces- 
sity for assisting by the organization of experiment stations for 
advanced study of the different features embodied in it. 

n 



Heretofore, the Belgian hare and fancy Rabbit has not re- 
ceived recognition from a Government departmental source, but 
I am sure this cannot remain so much longer; for once the com.- 
emrcial value of the Hare and Rabbit is intelligently appreciated, 
recognition as a national industry must follow. Progress in this 
direction lies with the Fancy, and it is this body that must make 
the Utility subservient to it, with the fact before mind that no 
creature can be too beautiful and physically perfect for food 
purposes. 

A Fancier 

To be a fancier, is to interest one's self in the principles em- 
bodied under the term Fancy, and as a breeder aim at their con- 
summation so far as possible. A fancier must needs be a breed- 
er, but a breeder is not always a fancier. To be a true fancier 
does not merely imply the liking of a certain classified animate 
being known as breed, strain, or type of animal or fowl, but as 
already intimated, the knowledge of an ideal toward which the 
liking inclines to an extent that scientific effort is exercised in its 
growth for perfect attainment. This implies, too, a reasonable 
information on structural tissue; of the laws of pro-generation 
with regard to merits and defects that are influenced by her- 
edity; and of physical characteristics that classify the variety 
in question. 

To apply one's self as a fancier can be made an object of 
the highest merit in that the exercise of personal qualifications 
which stand for honor, honesty and business integrity can be 
placed on a par with all other occupations that call for man's 
noblest principles. 

The Need for a Fancy 

With regard to rearing Belgian Hares and fancy Rabbits as 
a matter of Fancy, its beauty and wisdom as a chosen hobby 
can not be questioned. In several foreign countries, notably 
England, the breeding of pet stock has become as much an indus- 
try of importance as that of breeding thoroughbred stock of 
larger animals for domestic use. For its production they enter 
into it with as much care as that required for a first class speci- 
men race horse, dairy cow, canine, or fowl. The science to suc- 
cessfully produce Belgians and fancy Rabbits of their present 
perfection is as intricate and interesting in detail as for the 
above and has advocates by way of membership of men and 
women who stand in the forefront of educational, social and 
professional station. 

Fancy Rabbits are particularly attractive in many ways. 
They are docile, useful, and exceptionally beautiful; while as a 

12 



feature for relaxation from more weighty responsibilities no 
finer field is open for genuine pleasure. 

They are singularly appreciative of intelligent attention, 
and since their growth is rather quick, one's pleasure in seeing 
the fruits of one's efforts is sooner realized than in many creat- 
ures of other fancies. 

By way of unalloyed sportmanship no Fancy brings more 
real satisfaction than that derived from the numerous shows for 
friendly competition, where often the specimens are bred so 
keenly to the edge of uniform quality as to almost make a judge 
look three ways at once. And it pays, the Belgian and fancy 
Rabbit Fancy does; for when choice winners of any of the vari- 
eties, Belgians perhaps more essentially, fetch as high as any- 
where from $25 to $125, and win a trophy worth $50 besides, 
one need not wonder why such a Fancy attracts good people to 
membership. 

I know fanciers who annually have an income from $200 to 
$1,000 from the sale of specimens for breeding only; and in this 
country prices are not one-half that secured for winning speci- 
mens in England. That this is so, is entirely the fault of the 
Fancy here, and on the whole our stock is just as good as theirs — 
in many respects better in the matter of health and stamina. 

The reader will pardon this personal introduction, but I have 
often been asked by frequent visitors to my rabbitry "What 
prices do you obtain for the general run of breeding specimens ?" 
"From $5 to $25 per specimen I have heretofore considered reas- 
onable" is my reply. To show an approximate average, I will 
state that for 27 there was remitted $222. 

That a Fancy can be made a nicely profitable feature is fur- 
ther qualified when I say, that the actual cost to rear a Belgian 
Hare to maturity need not exceed 80 cents for a year's feeding 
when all foodstuffs have to be bought. Under many conditions 
the expense can be reduced to half this, so when one can secure 
stock of superior merit for such a limited outlay, and realize 
from $5 to $50 per specimen, such a Fancy commands more than 
passing notice. 

A well informed fancier and author has this to say: "As a 
Fancy the Belgian Hare and fancy Rabbit has few rivals which 
can claim such concentrated advantages, for, apart from the fact 
that each section of society is represented in its rank as exhibi- 
tors, the world-wide popularity of rabbits as an article of food 
and commerce grows by leaps and bounds annually." I look 
forward with the consciousness, that what has become in a num- 

13 



ber of densely populated foreign countries a Fancy and Industry 
of inestimable value to them in various ways, will not be long 
distant here. 

The Rabbit as a Species 

The Eabbit is indigenous to virtually every part of Europe 
and America. Australia has also a species of Rabbit somewhat 
akin in type and habits to the American "Jack." 

The Rabbit is a species of quadruped separate from that of 
the Hare, nor will the two species "Mix," as many suppose, un- 
less in very exceptional instances. It appears, also that to what- 
ever country the Rabbit is indigenous, it has characteristics that 
differentiate from its brother of the same species in another; 
either larger or smaller, or of varied color markings. The same 
holds true of the Hare in its native heath. 

The Rabbit is of the species lepus cuniculus, and the Hare 
lepus timidus, though both belong to the family rodentiae — a 
creature with long, rat-like front gnawing teeth. Originally the 
Rabbit was introduced into Europe from Africa, is the prevailing 
opinion among zoologists, and most likely what is now Spain; 
from thence into Brittany, and eventually over all Europe. How 
long since, or rather, in which of the earlier centuries this trans- 
pired is not definitely known. 

In its gregarius habits the Rabbit also differs widely from 
those of the Hare, and in the wild state is said to be monogram- 
ous. This latter trait, however, ceases with domestication, and 
either sex becomes altogether polygamous. It also differs from 
the Hare in that its young are bom immature, with eyes closed 
and the body nude of hair, in a nest lined with fur pulled from 
the mother burrowed in the ground whenever possible; while 
those of the former (Hare) are born with eyes open, and body 
nicely covered, in a "form" on top of the ground. 

The fertility of the Rabbit is also proverbial, a litter contain- 
ing anywhere from 4 to 12, while the female Hare rarely brings 
forth more than 2 and seldom as many as 4. 

An old English name for the Rabbit is Cony, and its cogno- 
men in many others is similar to this, as Latin cuniculus, Italian 
coniglio, German kaninchen, and Welsh owningen; but the Rabbit 
is not the cony of Scripture. 

Each country, and in America, each state has laws which at 
this time regulate the destruction to which it may be subjected as 
game; but this point is not essential here. 

For domestic purposes the Rabbit has been bred to many 
varieties, and virtually so from early times. As a dainty morsel 

14 



it has graced the table of ancient monarch and his humblest peas- 
ant down the ages until now, so that as an article of food and 
commerce it is recognized the world over. 

The actual consumption of Rabbit as a food is not totally 
known from available statistics right now, but England alone 
uses upwards of 25,000,000 pounds annually and in France, Ger- 
many, and Austria, as well as Belgium and Holland, it is, as 
already remarked, largely the food of their peasant class. What 
is known as the ''famous Ostend Rabbit" is merely a specially 
reared Belgian for culinaiy purposes, and occupies much the 
same position with epicures that the Canvass Back Duck does in 
this country. 

England has received her supply hitherto almost entirely 
from the colonies, notably Australia, where it was so abundant 
as to make wholesale destruction an absolute necessity because 
of menace to crops and fruit trees. I am informed quite recently, 
however, that the Australian species is in some danger of exter- 
mination, for it is not alone for food that its use extended; in 
fact, at first it was not used for this purpose at all, but for fur 
very extensively utilized by hat manufacturers. Because of this, 
indiscriminate slaughter was executed so that now I am told by 
one of the largest hat makers in the world that fur from this 
source has fallen off in supply nearly 40 per cent, and price con- 
sequently advanced in the same ratio. This same hat maker was 
greatly concerned, and advanced the suggestion that it would 
become an absolute necessity to rear fur rabbits in large numbers 
for both hat and leather uses, as well as the more inexpensive furs 
for wear. In fact, large quantities of skins are already utilized 
for the latter purpose, which would seem to suggest a field for 
unusual profit when managed with a view to producing a spec- 
ially grown article of superior "wool" merit and wearing quali- 
ties. I am convinced that this can be done. \. 



35 



The Flemish Giant 



As the name implies, this is the largest of all varities of 
rabbits. By reason of its size the meat for food purposes is not 
as fine grained as that of itis more classic rivals, the Silver and 
Belgian; but on the whole is quite desirable from the fact that it 
does not require many months to reach the same equivalent in 
weight which others attain only at maturity. Its meat is there- 
fore all the more tender and appetizing. 

The origin of the Flemish is somewhat obscure, but late in 
the '60's or early in the '70's, there was developed in Holland and 
Belgium a cross-bred rabbit that was given the name "Leporine." 
Later this was introduced into England, and here is what one 
author says about it: "Since Leporines so-called were introduced 
into this country they have been bred continuously, but with dis- 
tinct and different objects — in the one for size, and in the other 
ostensibly to develop a rabbit of the form, color, and fur of the 
wild Hare. The larger race has been called Patagonian, but is 
now recognized in a different type as the Flemish Giant." 

It is of course, then, a "made" rabbit, which accounts, no 
doubt, for the difficulty encountered by fanciers to breed reliable 
markings. 

By reason of its immense size, the Flemish can without pre- 
judice be named King of fancy Rabbits. Specimens have been 
produced that were said to weigh 20 pounds, while the average 
weight of Standard bred stock should be at least from 14 •to 16 
for females, and 12 to 15 for males. 

Whether this can be attained by American methods under 
the environment and climatic conditions peculiar to this country, 
remains to be seen. 

If one can not, or does not care, to breed this variety for 
Fancy, it is of excellent utility use. The mother being large, 
naturally has more nourishment for her young than a smaller 
variety; so that by a bit of attention to feeding her offspring 
can be made tio weigh near 4 pounds at six weeks, and at 3 
months will reach 6 pounds. One fancier informed me that he 
has grown them to 8 pounds, and some 9 at 3^/4 months old. hi 
Buch event, the Flemish should prove decidedly profitable as a 
market proposition. 

MATING 

In all my remarks with reference to the different varieties, I 
shall speak of them in the light of being thoroughbred stocr. 
am not in favor of mongrelism for any purpose, and all the less 

16 



I— < 
O 




so in any living thing that is utilized for either food or Fancy 
use. The methods suggested are therefore done so with a view 
to qualify for Standard requirements, and the breeder can so 
apply them whether rearing stock for show or market purpose. 

When getting ready to mate, look over the stock with care 
and see that all intended specimens are sound and of good coat. 
Consider size and evenness of color with particular criticism. 

For utility, no particular rule for mating is essential other, 
perhaps, than size and health, and it has been experienced that 
nice, dark bucks mated to "smoky" does will produce the largest 
stock as to frame and weight. For show purposes, however, 
matters are considerably different. 

Each specimen must be made an individual study with a 
view to fight against every fault that should not appear in an 
exhibition entry. One must pair up for length of frame and 
massiveness, and to this end select specimens as near Standard, 
in points of merit as one has them. Any defect in one of a pair 
always appears liable to show itself with more emphasis than a 
desirable point so that it is all the more important to select 
breeders of perfect body, good ears well set on, nice large eyes, 
straight and strong limbs, perfect set tail, massive and firm 
body as near of the steel grey color as possible. Mate dark 
steel greys, if one has them; but if there is ruddiness in one of 
the mates, it must not be on the male side. A black or intensely 
dark steel buck mated to a ruddy doe, usually gives good results; 
for in breeding Flemish it appears necessary to frequently fall 
back on black to maintain the essential dark tinge for true steel 
color effect. 

A black buck mated to a light steel grey doe will reproduce 
dark steel greys, and a dark steel grey buck mated to a black 
doe will result in a shade that seldom fails to attract a knowing 
judge. (Here the matter of in-breeding, cross-breeding, with 
the introduction of new blood into one's strain, as well as the 
originating of a strain, might be properly discussed; but since 
this reasoning applies virtually the same in all varieties, I will 
refer the reader to this section under Belgian Hares, where con- 
siderable attention is given the subject. — Author.) 

LITTERING 

The period of gestation is 81 days, and if it varies more 
than a day longer, or two at most, there is something wrong. 
The doe will begin building her nest, and pull fur to line it with, 
any time from 10 to 3 days before due to kindle, so that it is 

19 



necessary for her to have material for the purpose such as short 
hay or straw scattered about the hutch. 

Have the nest box so situated, if possible, that one can look 
into it without moving out of place, and sufficiently roomy for 
the doe to have free movements within so as to obviate danger 
of trampling the young. And I will say here, that Flemish 
require larger quarters in general than any other variety, 
because of their size. Plenty of room means better success with 
them. 

A few days before the doe is due to kindle have before her 
continually a dish of clean, fresh water. Many does become 
feverish at this time, and will not infrequently destroy their 
young if the desire for water cannot be satisfied beforehand. 
This would be unfortunate, and occasionally it genders the desire 
for blood to the extent of making cannibals out of them with 
every subsequent litter. 

After the doe has kindled, look over the nest and see if any 
dead are among them. If so, remove these with as little dis- 
turbance as possible, at the same time diverting the mother doe's 
attention away from the nest with some tempting greens or 
other delicacy. 

The matter of permitting a doe to bring up an entire brood 
is for the breeder to decide, but best results will eventuate by 
leaving no more than six at most. Above this number calls for 
extra attention with food and care. 

I know not a few who have succeeded in bringing up litters 
of 9, 10 and 11, one instance of which turned out every one a 
prize winner. But as a matter of Fancy, few fanciers permit a 
doe to rear more than four, fostering the remainder with a doe 
bred at the same time, or destroying the smaller ones out of a 
batch. 

With Flemish it is desirable to attain as rapid and as much 
growth from the first day on one can, and the more young there 
are in a nest, the more each will hinder the other's development. 
It is only a matter of several days, also, until there is a tyrant 
in the lot who preempts more than his individual share. 

Flemish can already in the nest from the first day be quite 
well selected for quality as to prospective standard points, like 
this — steel greys are known by their pink bellies and dark backs, 
while the blacks are virtually one shade on back and belly alike. 
What will turn out as light greys will have decided pink bellies, 
the tinge of which spreads well up the sides. 

20 



During the time a doe is suckling her young, an excellent 
dish to help growth is a sop of bread and sweet milk in con- 
nection with the evening mess. This is also an ideal "condi- 
tioner" for the young after leaving the nest up to six weeks old. 

Witih regard to feeding generally, each fancier seems to 
have a method he personally thinks best. Some do quite well, 
while others have less success; but I am safe in saying that more 
rabbits are lost from injudicious and too frequent overfeeding, 
than from insufficient and less frequent. 

Flemish are fed along similar lines as Belgians, to which 
exhaustive chapter I refer the reader. And just bear in mind 
continually that this variety is the largest rabbit, and therefore 
requires approximately more food. 

CARE AND ATTENTION 

Cleanliness is just as essential for the maintenance of 
healthy stock as regularity and quality of feeding. 

To render one's stock a pleasure and profit one must have 
no smaller measure of enthusiasm, which implies, that what is 
worth doing at all is worth doing well, as some moralist has it. 
No man can be a true fancier or successful breeder and make a 
name for himself unless he diffuses enthusiasm throughout his 
hobby. Every creature reared for man's pleasure and benefit 
must be made comfortable if its most perfect physical character- 
istics are to be expected. 

For instructions regarding care and attention of stock, I 
refer the reader to that laid down for Belgians. 

LIST OF WEIGHTS 

I here append a schedule of weights that are possible for 
Flemish to attain from correct methods of care and feeding: — 

1 Month 2 lbs. 6 oz. 

2 Months 3 lbs. 12 oz. 

3 Months 6 lbs. 6 oz. 

4 Months 8 lbs. 8 oz. 

5 Months 9 lbs. 8 oz. 

6 Months 10 lbs. 8 oz. 

12 Months 13 to 15 lbs. 

and as they advance to 15 and 18 months, their weight should 
be that of fully matured specimens — 15 to 18 pounds. 

It must be remembered that bucks are rarely as large as 
does, and the Standard is very liberal when it places the qualifi- 
cations for weight as low as "no less than 11 pounds for bucks, 
and 13 pounds for does." 

21 



TO PREPARE FOR SHOWS 

When one desires to exhibit at shows with the hope of win- 
ning prizes, some special attention to stock beforehand is neces- 
sary and if several consecutive exhibitions are scheduled one 
must not forget that such journeys with their incident "wear 
and tear" will be a severe tax on the constitutional stamina of 
finely bred specimens. Many an excellent rabbit has been de- 
stroyed by overshowing, or insufficient attention connected with 
the journey. And we have no short distances of shipment, either, 
nor do the express companies run special cars for exhibits of 
this sort. Reading over the excellent show reports by our Eng- 
lish fancier friends, I was often amused at the concern that 
occupies them with regard to distances, which at most is rarely 
beyond 200 miles, and seldom above 50. Here we are obliged to 
consider time rather than distance, and very seldom, except with 
small local shows, that less than 600 miles are involved. 

Make careful selection of the specimens intended for exhibi- 
tion, and say 4 or 5 days before date of shipping, place each sep- 
arately in a coop as near the size to be occupied at the show as 
one can arrange, and something within about 10 degrees as warm 
as one would think the show room to be. This consideration is 
quite necessary, and all the more so when stock has been open- 
air reared. The fact that rabbits are fur animals, and thus quite 
densely clothed, seldom finds thought in the heads of show com- 
mittees, who more often place such exhibits in steam heated 
rooms than a proper environment. 

Coops containing exhibits must be kept sciTipulously clean 
so as to obviate all danger of soiling the fur, which should every 
morning be liberally sprinkled with talcum powder, nicely tous- 
led through as to get near the skin, and then combed and brush- 
ed until the powder is all worked out. First two days use a 
wire brush, and subsequently a medium soft bristle. Use no 
water or cosmetics of any kind unless there is some disease of 
the skin that needs attention. Under the chin and belly stroke 
the fur with a small round stick shaped like a baton or drum- 
stick. This will bring out contour to the head and body, and 
acquaint the specimens with the pose expected by the judge. 
This attention must be applied only to bucks of the Flemish var- 
iety, and not to does. The latter must be stroked entirely by 
hand, and the dewlap gently manipulated so as to assume cor- 
rect position and shape — evenly placed beneath the chin. 

There is a popular notion that raw egg fed to a fur animal 
will produce "sleek coat," and that gunpowder fed to a horse 
will increase his action. Now while many of these "notions" 



appear amusing, and often quite worthless, there are others, 
withal, that have more practical sense than humor; for in the 
above there exists no small physiological virtue. Egg, we know, 
is rich in albumen, and gunpowder in the necessary reconstruc- 
tive elements — carbon, potash, nitrate, phosphorus, and sulphur, 
which enter into tissue construction of which nerve and muscle 
is made up. 

Raw egg can be given in the form of flip, which is made by 
beating one in a cup of sweet milk, add a teaspoonful of sugar, 
and two tablespoons of Sherry wine or brandy. If the animal 
will not eat this out of a dish, it can be given by spoon, or pipette. 

Whole wheat added to oats is also excellent a few days 
before showing. It is rich in gluten, and this .latter puts ''bloom" 
on the fur. 

After return from the shov/, an egg-flip is again a good 
'*pick-me-up" for the effects of wear. 

Have the shipping coops sufficiently roomy so as not to 
crowd, floor well littered with saw dusu or chaff, and ventilation 
for comfort. 

THE RABBITRY 

It is not by any means essential to keep rabbits in fancy 
quarters, so that the outlay in this direction need not necessarily 
be in one's v/ay to become a fancier and breeder. True, when 
one has taste for something a bit out of the ordinary, bunny will 
appear all the prettier in a finished house, and perhaps a trifle 
more comfortable than in a mere store box; but that he cannot be 
successfully reared in the latter has been demonstrated other- 
wise. Flemish, of course, require a more roomy home than any 
other variety, yet because of their docile disposition and general 
hardiness, will do well where others perhaps require more 
attention. 

Show specimens, however, need more room than is required 
for utility breeding so as to keep fur and physical condition per- 
sistently on edge. 

It is always advisable to have at least something of a run 
outside the coop, even if it has to be limited, for a rabbit is not 
congenial when obliged to remain continually where her nest is. 
If one can so locate the quarters that an occasional run in the 
open can be arranged, this will do wonders toward the mainten- 
ance of health — and how the native instinct becomes apparent 
during such runs, is a real pleasure to see. 

I have seen rabbits reared successfully in boxes no larger 
than 2x2x4, and I have seen them die by the dozen when kept in 

23 



such quarters. Close confinement means close attention. As 
with all creatures, exercise is a large factor toward keeping them 
well; hence the more room one has available to give comfort 
from this source the more likely will one's hobby prove worth 
while. 

For complete details concerning plans, dimensions and ad- 
ditional ideas about hutches, see Belgian chapter. 

STANDARD FOR FLEMISH GIANTS 

Size and Weight 

Bucks no less than 11 pounds 
Does no less than 13 pounds 

Points 

Size considered, irrespective of weight 30 

Color — Dark steel grey, even or wavy ticking over entire body; 
head, ears, chest and feet alike. Belly, and under part of 
tail, pure white 20 

Body — Large, roomy and flat, with broad fore and hind 
quarters. Does to have dewlap, evenly carried 15 

Legs and Feet — Strong in bone, large and straight, color of 
them to match that of body 15 

Head and Ears — Head large, full and shapely, with large bold 
eye of dark brown color. Ears moderately thick, carried 
neatly erect. Head and ears to match body color 10 

Condition — Full, short coat, flesh firm, healthy 10 

100 
DISQUALIFICATIONS 

Any grey, steel, sandy, or other shade on the belly or under 
tail, except a streak of grey in each groin. Sandy, brown, or 
red color mixed through the body fur. Inferior size, crooked 
legs, barred feet, screw tails, lopped ears, camel backs, and small 
narrow heads, or heads entirely too "bull-shaped." 

I will also add, that there is no small tendency for Flemish 
to throw a ruddybrown color shade; and while stock of this tinge 
usually has the making of large specimens that will do well for 
utility use, as show exhibits they are absolutely worthless in the 
eyes of an expert judge. 

To breed true and harmonious steel grey, is no easy matter, 
and the correct Standard shade; or rather, permanent color is 
rarely apparent in its perfect tone until completing the second 
molt. 



24 



The English Lop Ear 

THE LOP 

As a fancy variety, the Lop has made itself decidedly popu- 
lar, and while perhaps not so much so in this country as in Eng- 
land and Germany, it has, withal, many admirers. Its principal 
characteristic is the large ears for which it is noted, and speci- 
mens of enormous proportions have been produced in recent 
years. Instances are recorded with an earage of 27^ by 7^, 
and a weight of 12 pounds. Because af this immense earage, 
however, its breeding for purposes other than Fancy is not so 
■desirable as that of less bothersome varieties. 
i 

EARS 

For show purposes the Lop has two classifications — one for 
entries of classified length, and the other for any length. For 
the former, classification usually exceeds 24 inches, to any pos- 
sible limit beyond this; while in the latter no specification is 
made, and these specimens are judged perhaps more for univer- 
sal quality than earage alone. 

Measurement of the ears is taken from one extremity across 
the head to the other, and the width of one ear must be at least 
one-quarter of the total; that is, if the earage is 24 inches, the 
width of one ear must be six inches. 

There is also a characteristic pendancy to the ears when in 
natural sitting pose that must be looked for in well bred lops, 
which is due to a correct juncture of their roots with the cran- 
ium. This is an important point, and means that an ideal speci- 
men has the contour of head over its highest portion where it 
joins the first (cervical) bone of the neck so adjusted as to com- 
pel the ears to suspend uniform, and gracefully curved around 
their convex distension, without collapsing appreciably in any 
place except where touching the floor. 

POSE AND SHAPE 

When the head is posed as just described, it gives position to 
the animal throughout, a point that qualifies for Standard merit. 
This will naturally approximate the fore legs beside each other 
from elbow to toes, so they are evenly paired under the rounded 
"breast, and not much more than foot-length visible; neck rather 
sharply curved so as to start the back-curve from shoulder junc- 
tion in a uniform, almost half circle, free from projections, to 
the root of the tail — "in the buck rather straighter in saddle 
outline." 

27 



The hind legs are uniformly straight by the side of the body, 
toes not pointing away nor toward it, and flat on the floor from 
knee-joint forward, altogether "humping" the body between two 
strongly outlined shanks so as to make it appear almost balanced 
in the middle of them. 

COLOR 

Unlike the Belgian and several other varieties. Lops are bred 
to no specific color, unless solid blacks can be so identified. They 
are represented in sooty, fawn, white, grey, yellow, or modified 
buff, blue and self; or in broken colors of yellow-and-white, grey- 
and-white, blue-and-white, or black-and-white. 

In the distribution of these colors, there should be some ap- 
preciable regularity in that they are not to smear into one an- 
other, while "the saddle should be entirely self, the markings 
breaking at the shoulders." 

BUTTERFLY 

The head "has a star or blaze on the forehead; but its chiefly 
marked feature is the butterfly, a marking which, while it leaves 
the nose with no trace of white, is broken on the outline, resemb- 
ling this beautiful insect." 

This singular resemblance is physically due to the character- 
istic anatomy of a Lop head — the rounded, lateral-and-forward 
convex nose; conspicious eye brows, and rather broad appearing 
forehead formed by the root of the ears. 

All these points enter into classic breeding of this variety. 

EYES 

There is notliing special about the eye of a Lop other than 
it should be sound and attentive. But I will add, there belongs 
yet something that makes it decidedly characteristic of this 
variety of fancy Rabbit. The inordinate size of those pendant 
ears demand an anatomical adjustment of muscle and cartilage 
about the cranium that creates more or less corrugation around 
the eyes, which causes a singular droll expression quite typical 
of the Lop. It is an appearance of earnest effort to keep the eyes 
open in spite of those large ears. 

TAIL 

Must be perfectly straight and "carried well up the body, 
without any suspicion of a twist." To carry the tail side-wise 
does not imply a twist in it, nor is it necessarily a disqualification 
when the specimen is otherwise meritorious. 

BREEDING 

As remarked, the object of breeding Lops is virtually alone 
for their earage, and there has been considerable contention 

28 



among fanciers just where success comes from — correct strain, 
or correct attention. Arguments of intense warmth and no small 
acrimony have been freely exchanged on this point, but I am 
reasonably certain that if the strain is not endowed with inher- 
ent propensity to procreate well developed ears, there is small 
chance for meritorious success. 

The matter of artificial heat will, without doubt, also accent- 
uate growth of ear; and when natural weather temperature is 
below 70 degrees within, the quarters become a necessity, not- 
withstanding all arguments to the contrary. 

One prominent English authority insists that it is impossible 
to produce earage beyond 24 inches without artificial heat, but 
we must bear in mind that there is a marked difference in cli- 
mate between our country and that of England, and that warm 
days are not so many there as with us. That artificial heat is 
extensively used by European fanciers is a fact, but whether it is 
a judicious procedure for the welfare of the breed is a question. 

For the mere purpose of Fancy and general admiration, one 
can derive virtually as much pleasure from the "any length" 
class — say, 20 to 25 inch earage — as for extra length. The latter 
is largely a fad. 

With regard to mating, care, feed and general attention, the 
breeding of Lops does not differ essentially from that of other 
varieties, other than added care for the ears, which persistently 
hang on the floor. For this particular it is necessary that the 
quarters be kept clean continually, and the floor well covered 
with clean bedding of sawdust and chaff, straw, or hay. A dirty 
floor will soon bring on disease of the ears, and once this takes 
hold in a flock there is no end of trouble. 

LITTERING 

For obvious reasons, it is not desirable that nest boxes are 
given the expectant mother doe. If the general habits of a 
Lop are considered, along with the preponderant ears, it will be 
plain that the more room a doe has, the better able will she be to 
care for the young. All she requires, therefore, is sufficient 
material with which to build a comfortable nest in one comer of 
her coop, along with the wool she will take from the body to 
line it. 

After kindling, see that no dead ones are among the litter, 
and for reasons of success, reduce the latter to no more than 
four. I would suggest a foster mother rather than destroying 
them, particularly so when one has a reliable strain for earage; 
for it often happens that those from which the least is expected 
turn out best in the end. 

31 



It is simply astonishing with what rapidity the ears of a 
young Lop will push for length. An old fancier who has bred 
this interesting variety for many years informed me, that if the 
quality of a specimen is not apparent by length of ear in 10 
weeks from birth, there is small purpose in bothering further 
with it. He tells me that he has often measured the ears of a 
youngster on an evening, and by the following morning there 
was an additional two inches in length. One would scarcely 
believe this possible but I have not the least reason for doubting 
this fancier's word. This qualification implies, that an earage 
upwards of 20 and 22 inches must show at the end of 10 weeks, 
and that further length is very limited. 

I have often seen it in print that many practice "pulling the 
ears" to accentuate length; and on the other hand the accusation 
was also denied. Whether true or not, this practice should be 
condemned — with punishment, if necessary. 

STANDARD FOR LOPS 

There are now two stands by which this variety is judged — 
for the Limit Classes, and Any Length Classes. The former has 
special significance for earage while the latter considers the 
specimens as a whole. 
Limit Classes: — Points 

Ear length 15 

Ear width 15 

Substance and shape ... 5 

Shape and carriage 10 

Color and markings .... 15 

Condition 10 

Straight feet and tail ... 10 

Eye 10 

Size 10 

100 
Any Length: — 

Ear length 25 

Ear width 20 

Substance and shape ... 5 

Straight feet and tail ... 10 

Color and markings .... 10 

Condition 10 

Shape 5 

Eye 10 

Size 5 

100 

32 



French Lop 



STANDARD OF POINTS 

EARS— Length 16 to 18 inches 20 

HEAD— Short and thick 10 

EYES— Large and bold 5 

BODY — Large and slightly arched, does to have dewlap 15 

LEGS AND FEET— Straight and heavy boned 10 

SIZE AND WEIGHT— To be as great as possible; does 13 

pounds; bucks 12 pounds 30 

CONDITION— Flesh firm, coat smooth 10 

100 
DISQUALIFICATIONS— Permanent wry tail or feet. 



Domestic Rabbits 



Many varieties of rabbits have been "made" by domestic 
breeding, and here follow the more prominently recognized by 
fanciers: Flemish Giant, Lop, Dutch, Angora, Himalayan, Polish, 
English, Siberian; the Silver in Grey, Fawn, Blue and Brown; 
the Tan in Blue and Black; the Havana, Imperial, Selfs and 
leading all, the Belgian Hare. 



Utility Rabbits 



German Giant Dapple — Broken Color Flemish — Heavy-Weight 
Belgian — Flemish-Belgian Cross 

WEIGHT— Over ten pounds 40 

BODY — Large, roomy and broad fore and hindquarters ... 25 

LEGS AND FEET— Strong in bone, large and straight 15 

HEAD AND EARS— Head large, full and shapely; EYE 

bold; EARS erect and moderately thick 10 

CONDITION— Full short coat, firm in flesh, and free from 

cold 10 

100 
33 



The Dutch Rabbit 



By many this is claimed as the handsomest variety of all 
domestic rabbits, and with considerable justification. 

The Dutch is not as popular in this country as in England 
and Germany, though it is making friends fast. 

There is about this variety a certain fascination that ought 
appeal in particular to fanciers with a critical eye, for its color 
markings are such as to make a scientific breeding an absolute 
necessity. 

It has been said that Dutch are "hard to raise;" but why 
more so than other varieties has not been made clear, to my 
satisfaction at least. Were such the case, it is likely the trouble 
lies with the breeder rather than in the breed. 

The Dutch is not a large rabbit compared with domestic rab- 
bits in general. Standard qualifications want it comparatively 
small; so if there is any lack of stamina in the breed, it is pos- 
sibly owing to a persistent effort at keeping down weight, ac- 
centuated also, by close in-breeding. 

COLOR 

Color markings of this variety are characteristic and very 
pronounced, one color being always white, and the other either 
black, blue, tortoise-shell, or a type of steel grey. The solid 
colors must be typical of the parts they cover, and distinctly 
separated from the white. Neither shall smear into the other, 
and both must be entirely free from foreign hairs. Fancy value 
of a specimen depends altogether on the perfect markings thus 
characterized. 

White must be the marking of shoulders, fore legs and feet, 
under jaw and nose upward to between the ears, forming a dis- 
tinct blaze. About two inches of the hind legs from toes upward 
is also white. Solid color covers the saddle from short ribs 
back all but the hind feet, and its junction with the white must 
be as clean cut a line of demarkation "like a string about the 
waist." Both sides of the face, jowls and ears, are of the same 
solid color, just as evenly separated from the white. 

BREEDING 

Tfie biggest contention associated with breeding this var- 
iety lies in persistently keeping down size, and maintaining sol- 
idity for the two color markings. Owing to a lack of enthusiasm 
and interest in the breed for a time, these points became ser- 

84 



iously defective, but renewed life in the Fancy has in the past 
eight years largely overcome this trouble, and if present devotion 
is any criterion, it will not be long until the variety will again 
come to its own in the family of admired pets. 

To breed high quality Dutch there is but one road to real 
success — that of establishing a reliable strain. 

Start right, and the battle is near half won in the knowledge 
of personal results that relate to points of merit or demerit. 

The greatest contention is to overcome a propensity for for- 
eign hairs and splotches in solid markings, notably on the sides 
and flanks; specks in the eyes, or distinct discoloration; and 
white inside the ears. 

When mating it is advisable to use breeding stock that has 
maintained solid markings after its second molt. Intelligent 
attention to this factor has been a leading guide to the establish- 
ment of permanency in markings; and largely, also, for physical 
characteristics in general. 

The breeders whose success I have noticed as most pro- 
nounced, mated either a second molt buck to younger does, or a 
two-year old to yearling females. Greatest stress was laid on 
color characteristics in the male, while the females were selected 
more for inferior size; thus, as near as possible, equalizing points 
for both color and weight. 

Physically, the Dutch of whatever markings, is a beautiful 
rabbit when rightly bred. It should be neither racy nor cobby, 
but a graceful medium to which there is sufficient length that 
does away with pudginess. Never to grow above bV2 pounds, 
size and grace should be harmoniously proportioned to make an 
ideal. The ears are perhaps a trifle on the small side compara- 
tive to specimen. 

As to markings, these are so well outlined in the young 
when born, that one need not waste effort in bringing up what 
will likely turn out worthless ones. I am alluding to the line of 
demarkation separating the colors. If this line is ragged or 
irregular, colors will show the same when fur is grown out. 

FEEDING 

Standard weight for show purposes is 5 pounds, and not 
over BVz, hence one must keep in mind continually that overfeed- 
ing conduces to overweight. In fact, they do not seem to require 
as much as a few other varieties of the same size to keep in 

37 



good condition; and so far as the nature of food required, there 
is no essential difference with that of other breeds — ^with the 
exception, perhaps that not quite as free a supply of greens be 
allowed. This latter conduces to a disease known as scours. 

QUARTERS 

Everyone will readily understand, that a small variety of 
rabbit does not require so much room as a large variety. The 
quarters should be comfortable, clean for the sake of color as 
well as health, and sufficiently high to allow free jumping 
exercise. 

To keep down weight by exercise is far more desirous than 
doing so by stinting food. Exercise and air make for vigor and 
"blooming" fur. 

STANDARD 

Points 

Blaze and Cheeks 15 

Clean neck 10 

Saddle 10 

Undercut 10 

Feet-stops 15 

Ears 10 

Eyes 5 

Color 10 

Size, shape and Condition 15 

100 

Negative Points: 

Points 

Small specks on eyes, to lose 10 

Discolored, or wall eyes to lose 20 

Distinct spots, or flesh marks 20 

Over 5% pounds in weight 20 



70 



38 



The Angora Rabbit 



In this country, the Angora has been heretofore an exclus- 
ively ornamental variety. It makes one of the most attractive 
pets one may wish, and in the show pen one of the finest exhibits. 

In several European countries, notably France, this variety 
is reared quite extensively for its fur as a source of income by 
the peasant folk — furriers buying all that is rendered. 

As a matter of information I will mention here, that one 
rabbit is estimated to furnish "wool'' at a value of 5 to 7 francs 
per year, or approximately 20 fr. for three years, after which it 
is considered worthless by reason of the "wool" becoming too 
coarse, and is then consigned to the peasant's food supply. One 
specimen is "pulled" twice each season, much after the method 
our forefathers employed to secure down from geese. 

To us hurrying and much-wanting Americans this source of 
income would scarcely appeal right now; but permit me to prog- 
nosticate, that time is not far distant when breeding rabbits for 
fur purposes will become an actual necessity — unless the wearer 
of fur and felt hats gradually affiliates himself with some sort 
of inferior substitute. Of this I have been assured by one of 
the largest manufacturers of felt hats in this country, and he 
qualifies his assumption by saying that "it will be but a few 
years from now for us to see rabbit farms in every community." 

This would seem to bring the Angora forward as a desirable 
rabbit along these lines — essentially so for cross purposes with 
other varieties to attain the most advantageous fur. 

Among a batch of mongrel rabbits I saw shipped some time 
since to a New York commission house, was a specimen appar- 
ently the result of mating a near Angora with a part Belgian. 
The singularly beautiful fur attracted my attention, and by look- 
ing it over carefully, was impressed with the possibility of what 
the hat industry opened to one who would give scientific attention 
toward the attainment of a species of fur rabbit for this purpose 
— possibly from cross-mating thoroughbred Belgians, Angoras, 
and Silver Greys. 

FOR FANCY 

As remarked, for purposes of Fancy the Angora is very 
attractive, and makes an ideal pet. It is perhaps the most docile 
of all varieties, tolerating whatever handling is required to keep 
it so with entire freedom. 

Because of its long and delicate fur, it must of necessity be 
brought up in positively clean quarters. Constant disinfection 
must be applied to keep them so, and it must be remembered at 

39 



the same time that all animals and creatures with long "wool" 
are ready carriers of disease germs. 

In its most perfectly developed form the Angora resembles a 
puffy ball of snow, with the head almost hidden within its fleece. 
The longer and finer in texture its wool, the higher its value as a 
Fancy specimen. Wiry type of fur is not desired nor correct, 
while a tendency for it to mat appears an evidence of high 
quality. 

It is bred, of course, mostly in white, though recently some 
effort is being made to bring out what are expected to be blacks 
and blues. These latter have created quite some controversy 
among their fanciers antagonistic to several judges who passed 
on them with considerable question — rather in the light of sports 
"in smoky color" than a bred up variety of true shade. The fur 
of blacks and blues has been found, also, to modify with each suc- 
cessive molt to an extent that one is scarcely distinguishable 
from the other. 

BREEDING 

Out of the 100 points called by Standard requirements, 55 
are demanded for quantity, quality and length of wool. This 
should indicate to the intelligent fancier along what lines speci- 
mens ought to be selected to reproduce these qualities; and since 
the procreative functions are always more pronounced in the 
male, it becomes essential that this side of the line is well bal- 
anced. In no instance of breeding live stock am I in favor of 
feminine characteristics to preponderate in the male, but when 
mating Angoras for the particular qualifications above mention- 
ed, I am positive that feminity on the fructifying side will pro- 
duce best results. A coarse male rarely fails to reproduce coarse 
effects in both body and fur of his offspring. True, have the 
female as fine and pure of fur as available, but rather let size 
and front furnishing be the preponderating characteristics. 

Tufts on the ears are also an essential show quality, and 
should preponderate in the male. 

GROOMING 

Many an otherwise qualified specimen has failed to win, 
simply because it was carelessly groomed, or not at all; and to 
groom properly is a matter of no small attention. 

The exceeding fineness in texture of fur indicates that the 
skin is compactly covered with almost microscopic hair follicleci, 
and to be in any way rough to these with coarse brush, comb, or 
confections, possibly, means a coat that will eventuate into 
coarseness. First essential, then, is to keep the skin clean and 
healthy from the day youngsters begin to show Angora wool 

40 



a 

> 

o 
o 




type. For some months this is not a bothersome attention, pro- 
viding the quarters are kept clean and well bedded with shav- 
ings or fine hay. An abundance of the latter will do wonders by 
merely sifting through the fur, but to accustom the ball of wool 
to handling, and nurture the tender skin so its covering remains 
soft and fluffy, occasional brushing with a freely flexible wire 
brush, followed by a medium bristled hair brush, is desirable. At 
any rate, do not permit the coat to mat. But should this happen, 
and the specimen is desired for exhibition purposes, a genuine 
shampoo becomes necessary. Whatever one fails to do, under no 
circumstances fail in preventing vermin getting into the coat of 
an Angora; for here is trouble that becomes very real once 
it has a start. 

To prepare a specimen for exhibition, one's object must be 
to have the skin and fur virgin white and clean, which is best 
accomplished by means of a shampoo and dry brush. 

Select a warm place, say 75 to 80 degrees, and water of at 
least 98 to 104. Apply the shampoo with the wool scruffed 
"wrong way," use gentle rubbing, and then wash off with clean 
warm water, followed by a rub-down from a soft Turkish towel. 
Before the fur is altogether dry, dash through it a bit of good 
Bay Eum, then finish. When brushed well, muss up the fluff and 
sprinkle through it borated talcum powder, which is in turn thor- 
oughly gotten out by liberal brushing "in every direction" until 
the wool is woozly soft as the driven snow. There is no danger 
of the specimen taking cold if these directions are observed. 
Just be sure the fur and skin is entirely dry, and when Bay 
Rum and talcum is applied its pores are effectually protected. 

I have often been asked what to do for the removal of brass- 
iness and stains, and "what to apply to make a pelt pure white ?" 
If brassiness is not inherent with the strain, and stains have not 
remained too long, a shampoo is usually sufficient. But remem- 
ber, there is a vast difference in brassiness acquired from envir- 
onment and that of heredity, and in a properly cared Angora 
ought not to show. 

STANDARD 

Points 

Quality of wool 30 

Length and Quantity ... 25 

Front furnishing 10 

Ears— tufted 10 

Size and Shape 15 

Condition 10 

100 
43 



The Himalayan 



In Europe this variety of rabbit is reared in considerable 
quantity for its fur, and many fashionable women carry pelts 
with the belief that they are wearing beautiful ermine. 

The Himalayan is one of the handsomest species of domestic 
rabbit that can be desired, and beside being an ideal pet, brings 
real satisfaction to the critical fancier in the breeding of it for 
classic points. It is worthy of a stronger position in the Fancy 
than it now occupies. 

By way of description it has a beautiful white coat of short, 
fine, flossy fur, soft as down, and looks at one with droll, atten- 
tive pink eyes. The nose, ears, tail and four feet are deep choc- 
olate black, a beautiful contrast to the white dress over all. If 
these black points are deep and dense, and nicely even separated 
from the white, a specimen becomes all the more enhanced 
in value. The young when born are white entirely, but about a 
month old the dark extremities begin to come out gradually, and 
at four months their development is complete. 

A singular peculiarity about this variety is the anomaly of 
their black points growing lighter on exposure in the sun, and for 
this reason their breeding should be conducted in hutches with 
subdued light. Indoor quarters would therefore appear best 
adapted for successful effect, and which, on account of the deli- 
cate fur, must be kept scrupulously clean. 

In size a specimen should not exceed five pounds, and in 
general physical outlines conforms harmoniously with that of 
Dutch. Ears are neat, small comparatively, and black to the 
foots. No dewlap. White fur entirely free from blemishes of 
alien color. 

To make all salient points clear with regard to rearing this 
variety successfully, I will quote verbatim how a reliable breed- 
er says in "Fur and Feathers" he goes about it: "Allow the young 
to remain with the doe until they are 8 or 9 weeks old. If you 
take them away before, they will in all probability stop growing, 
and a young Himalayan must keep on growing until it has got 
all its points cleared. 

"With regard to mating, the question of relationship does 
not concern me so much as fitness from the standpoint of increas- 
ing points of excellence, and correcting faults. I never trouble 
about how closely they are related, providing they are perfectly 
sound and robust.. Never on any account in-breed from stock 

44 



tainted with any kind of disease, or regret is sure to follow. For 
my part I like stock closely in-bred, because it keeps your opera- 
tions more closely confined. (Of this theory associated with 
breeding the English fancier is virtually obsessed. I will refer to 
it in the chapter on Belgians. — Author.) These are the lines I 
work on, and I feel sure a great many of the most successful 
breeders of live stock have done the same. 

"As to feeding, I never found that Himalayans wanted treat- 
ing any different to other kinds of exhibition rabbits, only per- 
haps, that you should not give them quite as much green food, 
and not change it quite so often or so suddenly, as they are very 
subject to looseness. In very hot weather let them by all means 
have a drink of cooling water; but don't leave it in the hutches 
that they knock it over, for this soils them, and spoils the color 
of the feet. 

"And now I must get to feeding. Some Himalayan fanciers 
swear by hard feed and some by soft, but I don't stick to either. 
I just give them a nice change as often as I think good for them 
and if I find a rabbit does not care for the food I am giving, I 
take it away and give something it does like. Oats and wheat are 
the staple food for breeding stock and growing youngsters, but 
when preparing them for exhibition I like soft food, because I 
can mix together various kinds of food of an oily nature, and this 
keeps them on the move, and the molt. As soon as I have got 
their points clean, however, I give them hard feed, and three 
times a week some bean and pea meal, just to tighten them up 
and get them in fine condition. 

"I have referred to food of an oily nature, but this in no 
way gives them color, which must be bred for, though it gives 
their dense points a luster which is so fascinating, and which a 
judge likes. Some of the oily foods I used were linseed and 
molassine meal, whilst I have also used with great success a mix- 
ture of cod-liver oil and lime water — the lime water taking away 
the fishy taste from the oil. This is a fine conditioner and flesh- 
forming food for any kind of rabbits that are inclined to be poor 
and in low condition. 

"And just a few lines with reference to stained eye-lids. I 
am very much afraid we shall have this defect for a considerable 
number of years; in fact, I very much question if it will ever be 
gotten rid of, unless Himalayan fanciers import quite a fresh 
lot from their native land." 

Regarding the above points on care and feeding for Him- 
alayans, I quote the writer entire, for the reason that he conveys 

47 



with but slight modification the process pursued by virtually the 
whole English Fancy. It gives the reader a clear idea how fancy 
rabbits are reared over there, and to what fastidious lengths they 
will go to make a specimen showy. After results do not seem 
to be considered, and in the light of such effort, with its conco- 
mitant environment as to climate and limited quarters, one need 
not wonder that stock coming from there is without stamina, and 
too frequently diseased. Once we are obliged to rear stock for 
show effect only, there will be small interest for the scientific 
breeder. I allude to the efforts at forcing Nature to yield beauty 
at the expense of inherent physical qualities. 

It is a physiological fact, that rabbits with pink eyes are 
not so tolerant of light as those with dark. As an act of com- 
fort, therefore, if for no other reason, they should be kept in dim 
light quarters; and particularly should the young be protected 
until at least six weeks old. 

STANDARD FOR HIMALAYANS 
Density, Shape and Size of Markings: — 

Points 

Hind feet 20 

Fore feet 10 

Ears 15 

Tail 10 

Nose 15 

Quality of fur 10 

Shape 5 

Size 5 

Condition 10 

100 



48 



Silver Grey 



Here is a distinctly useful variety of domestic rabbit, and in 
referring to its physical characteristics, I wish at the same time 
to express a hope that shall actuate a better appreciation for the 
real merit to which it is entitled. 

On superficial observation the Silver will scarcely be estimat- 
ed as handsome, but on close examination of a correctly bred 
specimen there will be discovered a delicacy of fur that is a lot 
near silk than wool, and when that beautiful "pepper and salt'^ 
silvering is seen shimmering through it, there can not fail of real 
enthusiasm for the production of a good type animal. 

The Silver is neither large nor small, ranging from 5 to 7 
pounds. It has not the racy, reachy style of the Belgian, nor the 
compactness, "get-together" appearance of the Flemish. Fine of 
bone, clean and dainty, delicately valuable fur, and as near an 
ideal meat as the most fastidious epicure can demand. Indeed, it 
is almost too fine a meat, so that cross-mating, say, with the Bel- 
gian largely enhances its food value. 

I have given considerable attention to finding the origin of 
this variety, and while it is essentially an English product, the 
several fanciers who have rendered an opinion were so diversi- 
fied, that I am loath to say anything authoritative. 

One may inquire why this variety is named "Silver Grey"" 
rather than merely Grey, as one is readily impressed on first see- 
ing a correct specimen. There is a certain shimmer to the fur 
that clearly conveys the tinge of silver, due to a proportionate 
number of tipped hairs evenly distributed, known as ticking. The 
shade may vary from light to dark silvering according to the 
greater or lesser quantity of light hairs. In fact, from the stand- 
point of Fancy, the value of a Silver is estimated entirely by the 
evenness of its silvering, which ought to be as near alike over all 
the animal as possible — ears, nose, feet and tail should match 
body color. 

Undercolor is by some termed slate blue, and by others blue 
black. This should extend distinct to the skin. What is often an 
otherwise good specimen Silver Grey is frequently made inferior 
by entire lack of undercolor on the chest — a point to be constant- 
ly kept in mind when one's matings are made up, or new stock 
purchased. 

Likewise, specimens that are otherwise evenly silvered but 
have a "cloudy" appearance usually possess a strain from the 
Browns. 

51 



BREEDING 

There is but one essential to the successful breeding of Sil- 
vers — stock of even markings on both sides. This implies that 
males and females are as near like one another as one can pos- 
sibly have them. If anything, undercolor is perhaps of more vital 
consideration than surface color, which, as remarked, must have 
the evidence of even silvering. The coat should be short, and of 
such feel and consistence like silk. 

It is claimed by breeders of this variety, that richness of sil- 
vering is intensified by warmth. This, of course, comes from the 
English method of rearing the variety, and where climate and 
consequent environment must be considered. Also, the propriety 
of winter breeding, always injudicious unless accompanied by 
artificial heat. The latter a factor only when one breeds for 
show classes as scheduled according to age limits at all tim.es of 
the year. At the age of six months the finished luster of a 
Silver is supposed to be complete. 

STANDARD 

Points 

Undercolor, a deep rich blue black 25 

Evenness of silvering throughout 20 

Sharp, even bright ticking 15 

Short, full coat 15 

Ears, neat, well set on; bold, bright eyes 10 

Condition and shape 15 

100 



Silver Fawn, Silver Brown and 
Silver Blue 

are varieties not recognized to any appreciable extent in this 
country. At shows one sees occasional specimens purporting to 
represent them, but their breeding is of such uncertain success, 
as to warrant scarcely any real interest in their support. For 
utility purposes, they are just as appropriate as the Grey. 

52 




Mi 
CQ 

a- 

I— < 

12; 

Q 



The English Rabbit 

This is a "made" rabbit by English fanciers, and among them 
has many staunch admirers. It cannot lay claim to superior 
merit over any other variety beyond the singular markings that 
characterize it, and correctly bred, these are quite beautiful 
and odd. 

The breeding of English rabbits is always surrounded with 
considerable uncertainty, and in no variety is the necessity for 
reliability of strain emphasized as perhaps in this. Lately, also, 
some slight modification in their Standard markings have been 
made that do not by any means simplify breeding. 

Persistent inbreeding is the more likely road to success to- 
ward characteristic points, and as our English friends invariably 
do, they follow it with a vengeance. 

The peculiar markings which typically identify this variety 
are known as "herring bone" and "chain" — the former from 
shoulder along the entire back, and the latter along sides, ending 
on both shanks. Ears are solid black and the eyes are also sur- 
rounded by a solid circle. "Butterfly" nose is considered by many 
as important a point as that relating to ears and feet. 

There are few specimens in this country, and while a hand- 
some rabbit as a novelty that interests the fancier after such 
points, I doubt if it will at any time receive palpable recognition 
here. I would like to see it better recognized. 



55 



STANDARD 

Head Markings: — Points 

Perfect butterfly smut 15 

Circle around the eye 8 

Eye spot, clear from eye circle 6 

Eye, clear and bold 3 

Ears, neat, and free from white, not over 

four inches long 5 

Body Markings: — 

Neat saddle, herring-boned in any distinct 

color 10 

Sides of body to be nicely broken up in 

small patches, not to catch saddle 

markings 12 

Chain markings, even as possible on each 

side 12 

Leg Markings: — 

One distinct spot on each leg Fore leg 6 

Hind leg 2 

Belly spots, should be six 6 

Color 5 

Size and shape, 6 to 8 pounds 5 

Condition, good coat, not baggy 5 

100 



The Polish 



This is the "White Kabbit of Easter," and when bred to 
Standard qualifications, is an exceptionally handsome variety. 

It is pure white over all, has pink eyes, and in physical out- 
lines closely resembles the Himalayan (without the dark points). 
In shape it is neat, and not by any means pudgy, and has little in 
conmion with the white rabbits one sees running about yards, 
kept in filthy small boxes by children, and reared mostly for 
Easter occasion. Very few of these are Polish. With its solid 
whiteness that gives continuity to outline, there is apparent all 
the while something striking in the spry and bold appearance to 
the animal, and quite typically accentuated in the inquisitive pink 
eye. When on the alert there is a characteristic grace that 
removes all compactness out of the body, with the result of real 
beauty in outlines. 

Its fur is of fine quality, short, close to the body, smooth 
and of silky texture. Ears are short, well set on, thin, and finely 
covered with fur, the latter point being good evidence of thorough 
breeding. 

Because of their immaculate whiteness — and, by the way, 
there must be no evidence of brassiness in the coat — Polish must 
be bred in clean hutches, so constructed as to prevent direct sun- 
light into them. 

There are no rules of special importance for mating other 
than the male and female should be well matched as to quality of 
fur, ear finishing, and perfect health. Any evidence of brassiness 
must also be avoided, a caution quite essential when new speci- 
mens are purchased. 

STANDARD FOR POLISH 

Points 

Shape 25 

Quality of fur 25 

Purity of color 15 

Ears 15 

Eyes 10 

Condition 10 

100 



59 



Black and Tan 



This beautiful and interesting variety has but few admirers 
in this country. It is essentially an English product, and is sup- 
posed to have its origin in the cross of a domestic with the wild 
rabbit (not hare) of England. 

In shape, and to an extent in markings, it has considerable 
identity with the Dutch. The points are, of course. Black and 
Tan, each color distinct for the parts to which they are attributed, 
and must be free from alien splotches. Tan must be of a deep 
and dense color distributed as follows: — front, sides, feet and 
hind legs, jowls and face. Ears are small and the eyes are very 
bold, after the instinct of wild rabbits. 

STANDARD 

Pointj 

Tan, deep and rich 15 

Black, dense 10 

Distri- Triangle 5 

bution Hind feet 10 

of Tan Fore feet 5 

Chest and Flank 5 

Nose, Eyes and Jowls 5 

Ears, in and outside margins 5 

Black saddle, no ticking 5 40 

Shape, that of Dutch 10 

Ears, short and black 10 

Eye 5 

Condition 10 

100 
BLUE and TAN, is identical with the above, blue taking the 
place of black. 

Weight of both varieties, 4l^ to 5 pounds. 



^<' 



The Havanna Rabbit 

This is one of the very latest varieties and was first intro- 
duced as an exhibition specimen into England, in 1910. The cor- 
rect color is dark brown to dark chestnut brown and blood red 
brown changing with the varying light. From Holland, Havanas 
have been sold to go to France, Switzerland, Germany, and quite 
a few have found their way into the United States. In France 
they appear to have been crossed with the Belgium hares, the 
color of these specimens being light tan brown, and the frame 
and ears are consequently much larger than in the original 
variety. The pelts are of considerable commercial value as an 
imitation beaver. Furriers require a rough, longish coat, and 
the Dutch variety appears to be the one most bred for this pur- 
pose. Havanas are strong and hardy and easily reared in outside 
hutches of ordinary dimensions. The show type that appears to 
be superior is the smaller, neat, short coated variety. The larger 
ones often exhibit a dewlap and are somewhat coarse and awk- 
ward looking. The eye is deep brown, changing to ruby and 
quite a feature of the variety whose most pronounced fault after 
the variation in color, appears to be a preponderance of white 
hairs in body and ears. The general appearance of the Havana is 
somewhat similar to the Imperial, with a decided blue cast to be 
seen on the belly and thighs. There are wonderful possibilities in 
the Havana and we look forward to them becoming great favor- 
ites in the United States. 

STANDARD OF POINTS 

Points 
Color — A rich, bright brown all over, with undercoat of 

pale grey 30 

Shape and Size — Exceedingly fine and elegant, somewhat like 

the Black-and-Tan. Head and neck medium. Weight, 

when full grown, not to exceed 5 V2 pounds 30 

Ears — Four inches long, fine in substance, small, straight 

and carried upright 10 

Feet — ^Very slender and straight, with brown toe nails 10 

Eyes — Large, the color of the fur, showing a red light in the 

pupil, yet having a soft and gentle expression 5 

Coat — Short, fine and silky 10 

Condition 5 

100 
63 



The Imperial Rabbit 

The ideal Imperial may be described as follows: Shape and 
size, similar to that of a Belgian buck, but shorter in limb and 
weighing, when full grown, from 6 pounds to 7 pounds. Color 
dark blue, of one even shade throughout. Fur, soft and bright, 
and rather longer than in the short haired varieties. Head, nar- 
row and tapering, eyes being long, bright, and deep blue 
in color. The ears should be about 4^^ inches long, round 
at the tips, carried erect, and set rather closely together. The 
commonest faults are white hairs intermixed with the blue, rusty 
color, brown eyes, and bars of a lighter or darker color on feet. 



STANDARD OF POINTS 

Points 

Shape and Size 25 

Head 10 

Ears 5 

Eyes 15 

Color 25 

Coat 15 

Feet 5 

100 



64 



Selfs 



It was not my intention to touch on Selfs and yet the book 
would scarcely be complete without some reference to the en- 
deavors being put forth at present to popularize Self-Blacks and 
Blues. The production of such varieties presents little difficulty 
in the matter of color, and all that is required to be done is to 
reduce size and shape to the Standard governing the Polish or 
White Self Rabbit. 

Breeders of these new varieties which give every proof of 
rapidly becoming popular are obtaining them by different meth- 
ods. Blacks are being bred by mating dark silver greys and the 
common wild rabbit, caught when young and tamed, and from 
Polish and Silver Greys. Both Self-Blacks and Blues are com- 
mon enough in litters of tan and English and this presents an 
easy method of obtaining stock. Self-English are, however, 
much too strong in type, and therefore not the best means of 
securing the desired end. The first method of producing Blacks 
is the best and for Blues the Self-Blues often bred in a litter of 
tans is equally useful. 

No Standard of points has been drawn up, as yet. The only 
guide to breeders is the Standard for Polish. Neatness, short- 
ness of ears and coat, combined with purity of color, are the 
points to aim for, and the rabbits when produced are to be of the 
"bantam" variety. There is no doubt about the success of the 
newest of new varieties, providing the Polish type is adhered to, 
and it is safe to predict a successful future for Selfs. 



65 



The New Zealand Red Hares 

This is one of the latest varieties of rabbits to claim the at- 
tention of American breeders. It is bred in New Zealand largely 
for its size and splendid meat quality. In size they are between 
the Belgian and Flemish and claim is made that the quality of 
the meat is superior to either and commands better prices for 
hotel trade and in the open market. They resemble the Belgian 
in shape. In color they are a deep orange. This combination will 
appeal to breeders from a beauty standpoint also. 

STANDARD OF POINTS 

The following Standard has been adopted by the New 

Zealand Red Hare Club of America: — 

Points 

COLOR — (Rich even deep orange, red in all sections). Rich- 
est specimen to receive reward 25 

SHAPE — Body long, medium deep, back slightly arched, 
loins well rounded, muscular chest, head of good length, 
tail straight and a good racy appearance throughout .20 

EARS — About six inches, fairly thin, stout and heavy at base 
no lacing on edge, one blend of color throughout, color 
the same inside and out 15 

EYES — Large, round, hazel color, bold in appearance 10 

FORE-FEET — Straight, medium, and rather long, slender. 
Hindfeet long, well colored, to correspond with body 10 

CONDITION — Medium fat, flesh set on firm, and a good racy 

appearance, fur of good quality 10 

Without dewlap 5 

SIZE— Nine pounds 5 

100 
DISQUALIFICATIONS— Lopped or fallen ears or ear. Wry 
tail extending more than twenty-five degrees. 



The New Zealand Red Rabbit 

The breeders of the New Zealand Red Rabbit in America 
are experiencing considerable difficulty in agreeing on a Standard 
of Points. We regret this exceedingly and until they do agree, 
to make our Standard complete, we print the separate ones. 

66 



(Official Standard of National New Zealand Red Club) 
STANDARD OF POINTS 

COLOR — Even reddish buff, carried well down sides with 

whitish under body 30 

WEIGHT AND SHAPE 30 

HEAD — Medium and shapely, with large bright hazel eyes. 
EARS — Erectly carried, medium thick, 5V2 inches long, free 

from ticking; head and ears to match the body color 15 

LEGS — Medium heavy boned, front feet solid reddish buff; 

hind feet red as possible 15 

CONDITION— Firm in flesh and close-coated 10 

OFFICIAL WEIGHT— 41/2 pounds at three months; 6 pounds 

at 5 months; 8 pounds at 8 months; 9 pounds at 10 

months; 10 pounds at 12 months. 

100 

DISQUALIFICATIONS— Lopped or fallen ear, crooked feet, 
other than hazel eyes, wry tail. Does to have dewlap evenly 
carried. 



As adopted by the Pacific Pet Stock Association, May 10, 
1914. Larger than the Belgian Hare and of a beautiful reddish 
buff color. Does to have Dewlap evenly carried. Everybody's 
friend wherever known. 

Official weight — 4 pounds at 3 months; 6 pounds at 5 months; 
8 pounds at 8 months; 10 pounds at 12 months. Five points cut 
for every pound short. 

Disqualifications — Wry tail, lop ear, crooked front or hind 
feet, other than hazel eyes, foreign colors. 

Score Points Cuts 

COLOR— Reddish buff, with whitish underbody 25 i^-lO 

WEIGHT AND SIZE 20 1/2-10 

HEAD — Medium size and shapely 15 Vz-l 

EARS — Erect, medium thick, 5V2 inches long 10 Vz-l 

EYES— Hazel 10 V2-I 

LEGS — Medium, heavy-boned, with as little white 

as possible 10 %-7 

CONDITION— Firm in flesh and close coated . . 10 1/2-5 

100 
67 



THE BELGIAN HARE 

INTRODUCTORY 

As alluded in a former chapter what I shall remark concern- 
ing methods of rearing, and the "keeping" of Belgians in general, 
can be applied to all varieties heretofore mentioned. 

There is no essential difference in housing, cleanliness, feed- 
ing, and practical attention other than the salient points speci- 
fied with each variety. The general principles for mating, breed- 
ing, the matter of pedigree records, and bringing up along intell- 
igent lines, apply virtually alike in all. 

Of all the varieties of domestic rabbits, the Belgian Hare has 
maintained highest popularity. This is due largely to its many 
excellent qualities in all respects, and correctly bred offers to 
both fancier and utility breeder the widest scope for satisfaction 
and usefulness. And bred, also, in harmony with Standard char- 
acteristics, there is about it a grace and beauty in both shape 
and color that is not found in any other variety. 

ORIGIN 

There is no positive information available as to correct 
origin of the Belgian Hare. Its name would have one naturally 
infer that it originated in Belgium, but I am not aware that it 
was by Belgian breeders ever designated by the subjoined term 
Hare, unless in later years. 

An English writer says, "The Belgian Hare is so called from 
its resemblance to our English Hare, and from its Belgian orig- 
in. It has, however, no blood relationship or affinity to lepus 
timidus (common Hare), but is to all intents and purposes, a 
rabbit." Technically, then, the Belgian is named Hare by court- 
esy, and is a rabbit in fact, the English wild hare being the pat- 
tern that has stood for fanciers of that country as an ideal to- 
ward which they have directed their breeding since its introduc- 
tion from Belgium. With all this idealism, however, the Belgian 
will never be an exact likeness of its prototype, for without the 
admixture of blood from the latter there can be no more than a 
similarity. 

Belgian breeders claim, that what is now the upbred Belgian 
Hare was originated by them from a cross of the wild Hare in- 
digenous to that country, and their common rabbit. This asser- 
tion, though, has never been proven within my knowledge, and I 
doubt if it is true. If they have succeeded in mixing the blood 
of two distinct species of animals, it was going without the 

68 



bounds of zooligical probabilities, and what many have subse- 
quently attempted only with failure. There are, indeed, some 
features about our present Belgian that lend possibility to the 
claim, but when one appreciates the continual contention against 
development of the persistent rabbity dewlap, there is less room 
for belief. 

Naturalists describe the wild hare of Belgium, by a "fur 
of dark reddish color, with white belly and weighs from six to 
nine pounds." 

In its original type the Belgian Hare, so named, was intro- 
duced into England sometime about 1856 to 1860. It came with 
the name Leporine. No immediate progress was made by Eng- 
lish fanciers, and it was not until some fifteen years later that 
attention was directed toward a specific type. In the last twenty 
years, however, much advancement was accomplished, largely ac- 
centuated by the interest aroused throughout this country. 

To better appreciate the idealism toward which Belgian 
fanciers breed with the wild Hare as prototype, it will not be in 
apropos to remark a bit of natural history concerning it here: 

Virtually every country has a wild hare that is indigenous to 
it, and in no two countries are the species identical. That is, 
there is no difference in specie habits, but it is either larger or 
smaller, with such modification of color markings as its environ- 
ment seems to demand. 

America has several species, the most common of which is 
the "Northern Varying Hare," so named on account of accommo- 
dating its color markings, as it were, to the locality it inhabits, 
in the northern countries changing. entirely to white during the 
winter months. In summer it is brown, varied with black tipped 
hairs, the prevailing color in the more southern countries. 

Then we have the "Prairie Hare" (lepus campestris), dis- 
covered by Lewis, and is never found east of Kansas. This spec- 
ies is most abundant about Salt Lake, and in Utah generally. 
The fur is white in winter with here and there brownish spots, 
while in summer it is a yellowish grey. 

The "Wood Hare" (lepus sylvaticus) is a small variety, and 
frequently confounded with the common rabbit. It ranges from 
Hudson's Bay to Florida, and in physical characteristics has 
much in common with the wild rabbit of England. 

"Trowbridge's Hare (lepus trowbridgii) is the smallest of all 
American species, and is found only on the Pacific Coast. 

The species which is indigenous to England and Scotland, is 
perhaps the most beautiful and characteristic of all, the world 

71 



over; and as previously mentioned, it is this that has been made 
the prototype for attainment with the domestic variety. 

In natural history, the Hare is described in the following 
language: "The common Hare is known from the rabbit by the 
redder hue of its fur, the great proportionate length of its black- 
tipped ears, which are nearly an inch longer than the head; by its 
very long hind legs, and its large prominent eyes. When full 
grown it weighs on the average about 8 or 9 pounds, and some- 
times even 12 and 13. In total length it rather exceeds two feet, 
the tail being about three inches long. The color is greyish- 
brown on the upper portions of the body, mixed with a dash of 
yellow; the abdomen is white, and the neck and breast yellowish- 
white. The tail is black on the upper surface and white under- 
neath." This quotation is rather broad, and no doubt meant to 
be general for the Hare species, while that native to England 
(the prototype of the Belgian Hare) is somewhat more pro- 
nounced, the animal being rather longer and consequently more 
racy. The English wild Hare is typically "built" with long, thin 
fore legs, rather full chest nicely tapered into an upward trend of 
the belly that ends in a racy tuck-up at the flank, and the latter 
fortified by a pair of strong-shanked thighs of powerful propell- 
ing muscular action in the well-formed reachy hind legs. Color 
that of the fox in full "bloom," a rich tinge of old gold, and the 
back from shoulder to tail tipped with beautiful ticking, "like a 
wavy field of grass in summer." Ears erect, and "foxy" in at- 
tention and color, with pronounced black points. Head rather 
broad across the skull, short, strong, and a bit thick, with a "pop 
eye" that stands out bold and alert, quick and nervous as if 
taking in all surroundings at once. 

The wild Hare will invariably bring forth its young in a 
nest (called a form) built on top of the ground, while the rabbit 
will "make a hole" (called a burrow) in the ground, line it with 
fur pulled from the mother's body, and have a litter of 4 to a 
dozen. The mother Hare will rarely have more than 4 and more 
frequently but 2 and 3. 

Another differing feature of the Hare from the rabbit it 
is claimed, is that the former brings forth its young with the 
body covered with fine hair, and the eyes open, while the latter 
are born immature, uncovered by fur, and the eyes closed for 
ten days. I can not verify this assertion concerning the Hare 
leverets out of personal observation; but from the fact that the 
Hare and Rabbit is both of the genus rodentiae, which are all 
night foragers and born with eyes closed, I am at a loss to 
reconcile this particular characteristic. 

72 



Distinctly, all Belgian Hares of consequence bred in this 
country are of foreign origin, and with but few exceptions, direct 
descendants of stock imported from England. What specimens 
came to America from Belgium and Germany are as different 
from the English type as a Percheron is from the Kentucky race- 
horse, and there is little about these that appeals to the classic 
fancier. One sees occasional advertisements of "Grey," "White" 
and "Black" Belgians. There are none such, and the name is 
more a whimsical misnomer for an uncertain cross-bred rabbit or 
the result of self-colored sports. 

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS 

When the expert horseman wishes to purchase a speedy driv- 
ing animal, he first inquires where, and from what stock it is 
bred. It must, first of all, have an ancestry of recognized and 
demonstrated quality. This implies health, speed, and durability. 
Then he looks the horse over from every point of view — front, 
sides, behind, close and afar. He does this with the animal in 
pose and when in action, and notes every contour of head, body, 
and limbs. He wants a driving "machine" that has all its phys- 
ical parts harmoniously and scientifically adjusted for easy 
action that makes time with the least effort. Shape of head, 
expression conveyed by set of ears and attention in eyes, car- 
riage of tail, shape of body with taper toward flank, strong shank 
action beneath a well-formed back — all these characteristics 
make for qualities desired. And so with the thoroughbred Bel- 
gian Hare. 

In speaking of its physical characteristics we have in mind 
all that one sees in outline, contour, shape, size, length of limbs, 
ears, eyes, expression, and color markings. It is a picture of type 
that aims for an ideal, and as before mentioned, since this ideal 
is largely made up in the physical characteristics of the wild 
hare, it is necessary in breeding the domestic to constantly keep 
this before us. 

No one man in the Fancy the world over has done more to- 
ward bringing the Belgian Hare to its present physical status 
than Mr. John Noble, of England. His high abilities as a scien- 
tific breeder, fine perception of physical points, and all require- 
ments that make for success, are only accentuated by the rare 
qualities of the man as shown by his gentlemanly courtesy to- 
ward every one, that I am willing to concede him all the honor 
so meritoriously but modestly earned. Mr. Noble has "made" 
the Belgian what it is more than any one else, and this is what he 
says about the making: 

73 



"I have made a special effort to develop the shape of the 
Belgian Hare ever since I decided to make this variety my spec- 
ialty, and have succeeded in breeding some of the best ever bred. 
Most fanciers know that we wish to breed to represent the wild 
Hare in general style. You will therefore select your specimen 
with fore legs as straight and long as possible and the hind feet 
long and fine also; ears about five inches long, and carried similar 
to the wild Hare; head (rather) long. The neck must fall low 
from the ears, with a graceful cui-ve along the back, and a gradu- 
al rise to the hind quarters, which should be well rounded — not 
chopped off abruptly. 

"This specimen of which I have drawn the outlines is to a 
very large extent idealistic. A successful breeder is an idealist. 
You must always have pictured in your mind's eye what you wish 
to see realized. You will not be satisfied with your realization 
for as your practical efforts advance, your ideal keeps advancing. 
Consequently you are always living in a state of hope." 

Another breeder of note, Mr. Wilkins, has the following to 
say of the physical characteristics that to his mind constitute a 
typical Belgian: 

"The body of a Belgian should be long and fine in build; the 
forepart should not be heavy, but fine and graceful; the back 
nicely arched and rounded from shoulder to tail; the haunches 
round, not choppy; fore legs should be long, fine, and well set on; 
that is to say, they should be so placed as to lift the fore-part of 
the body well from the ground and let plenty of daylight under 
it. The head of a Belgian should be long and lean, with prom- 
inent eyes full of luster. The ears should be well set on the 
head, carried erect when in motion, and laid on the shoulder when 
in repose. They should not be too short, as shortness of ear 
causes a rabbity appearance. The correct length is five inches. 
The neck should be fairly long and slim in proportion to the 
body. The bones of the hind legs should be long and lean, not 
thick and chumpy. Tail should be straight and in no ways curl- 
ed. The whole properties of the makeup of a Belgian should 
combine to present to the eye, as the wild Hare does, a look of 
gracefulness and activity. A thick, choppy, angular Belgian is 
an abomination." 

This latter picture is even more idealistic than the one drawn 
by Mr. Noble, and is decidedly more away from the real wild 
Hare type, notably its head and neck. However, the possibilities 
of these pictures are exceedingly fascinating, and to attain them, 
a real art. 

74 



It will be noted that in the above descriptions no mention is 
made of color characteristic — a feature that to many fanciers ap- 
pears of almost greater significance, apparently, than that of 
shape; so that one might be led to think from this silence that 
color markings are of inferior importance. As previously re- 
marked, color should have its share of considerate attention, but 
never made to supersede shape. Nature is fickle with color iden- 
tity, as shown in the ever changing variableness of the wild 
Hare according to season and environment. 

The wild Hare is the race-horse of the native rabbit family, 
and the Belgian that of the domestic bred. This point should be 
constantly in the fancier's mind when breeding for quality; so 
that by all science available in the breeding art he keep away 
from bulkiness, bigness, and general rabbity outlines, just as the 
breeder of speed-horses keeps away from the common farm 
product. 

But this is not to convey the inference that raciness of shape 
means necessarily a small animal. Standard weight is eight 
pounds, and this is not by any means difficult when one gets 
length rather than compactness. Leave the big, compact stock to 
the utility breeder, for this sort should never be specified as 
fancy, but made a distinct class by itself after the German and 
Belgian type. It is the trade in stock of this latter "make" that 
has done breeding for classic Belgians great harm, and it would 
not be injudicious to create two classes with a view of opening a 
channel for show recognition to breeders whose ideas for size 
outweigh those of raciness. This would place the utility rabbit 
on a basis of equal breeding for its particular qualities with that 
of the classic type. Possibly, too, the advisability of distinguish- 
ing names for clear differentiations of the two types would not 
be amiss. I shall add here, that associated with an understand- 
ing of physical characteristics there is frequently a misinterpre- 
tation of type for shape, so will insert what Mr. Ziegier, a leading 
American fancier and judge, entertains as a proper definition of 
the former: — 

"Type is the aggregate of characteristic qualities. A Bel- 
gian Hare true in shape might be a very poor type, and again a 
specimen perfect in color may be a poor type. It takes good 
color and good shape to be a good type. A specimen that scores 
high according to Standard requirements is a good type, and one 
that would score 100 in shape, size, color and quality would be 
perfect type (est inventus). Quite often the word "type" is 
used when only shape is meant. The shape of the Belgian adds 
to the makeup of Belgian type, but by no means will shape alone 
determine its type." 

75 



I will leave the interpretation of this quotation to each 
reader individually, and with it the inference that a show speci- 
men of any species of exhibit judged by the score-card system, is 
subject to the judge's individual interpretations of score-card 
points; and that it is as rare as snow on Fourth of July for two 
judges unknown of each other to aggregate an identical average 
for the same specimen — a fact that demonstrates something "out 
of joint" with either the judge or the Standard, most likely the 
latler. So long as the English and American Standard remain as 
at present, comparison judging will be nearest correct and satis- 
factory. With regard to type, I am personally not inclined that 
color takes a leading part, and has little more to do than a mark 
of identification possibly; nor does it appear to me logical that 
"a Belgian Hare true in shape might be a very poor type." 

DEWLAP 

By visitor and novice the question has often been put to me: | 

"What is that lump under the chin?" "Why is it there," and by 1 

the fancier and breeder, "How are we to get rid of it, since the '! 

Standard qualifies *no dewlap?' " | 

The dewlap exists by reason of the Belgian's rabbit origin, 
and to get rid of it has been an effort of all good breeders from, 
the first; and while its riddance is not yet a complete success, I 
am glad to note that we are gradually "getting there" more 
and more. 

Technically, the presence of a limited dewlap does not dis- 
qualify in the show room under a competent judge, but speci- i 
mens with pronounced accumulation of a "lump" should be con- I 
demned both as breeders and exhibits, since it appears that the 
tendency to reproduce this objectionable point is quite prone; and 
all the more so when the least evidence of it is apparent in males. 
For purposes of Fancy, therefore, no buck should be used as a 
stock-getter that has not a clean, well outlined neck, and whose 
progenitors have been likewise so. 

Anatomically, the dewlap is neither fat nor gland, but rather 
a combination of both, with an added affinity to enlarge in har- 
mony with the functions of reproduction. It is virtually an ex- 
tension of the milk glands in modified form, and is greatly ac- 
centuated by frequent gestation. To out-breed it means atten- 
tion to the selection of proper stock, and to judicious mating with 
regard to frequency and age. What has been accomplished thus 
far is largely the result of junior matings, or matings with one 
side under age maturity, preferably the doe- In other words, 

76 



there must be a doe, at least, a physiological condition of sub- 
normal development in the reproductive sphere, with consequent 
stock of finer physical proportions. 

That objection to the dewlap should exist, at least to a limit- 
ed degree, as a factor entering into classic breeding of Belgians, 
does not necessarily follow; but since we aim to reproduce them 
as near true Hare type as possible, its elimination becomes all 
the more necessary, for the more of it we have the less Hare 
quality we possess. 

Personally, I have never seen a matron doe without any evi- 
dence of it at all, however slight, and I have seen many as well 
as bred of some of the best specimens yet produced; but if one 
can breed up to a standard of no evidence in junior does, and not 
much in matrons, we can be well satisfied when all other charac- 
teristics come within high quality. Success, if at all attainable, 
lies in a carefully sustained strain. 

COLOR 

Associated with breeding the Belgian, there has continually 
been more or less diversity of opinion as to what constitutes a 
correct color for it. In fact, fanciers have taken sides over the 
issue, and in many instances came near the point of acrimony 
about it. "The flame is not worth the candle" compared with the 
value of physical characteristics, wherein lies the true Hare 
picture. 

Some advocate the deeper tinted shade styled by them "ma- 
hogany red," while others stand by the now popularized tinge 
specified as "golden tan." As will be seen, there is scarcely a 
decided opinion on any shade. 

Standard requirement calls for "rufous red." Why this in- 
decisive term was made descriptive for color I am unable to say; 
and it is quite certain that the popular color now in vogue is, 
technically, not rufous. That the term is confusing is made ap- 
parent from various expressions vouch-safed by those trying to 
define it with specific wording, as "golden tan," "golden chest- 
nut," "chestnut tan," "mahogany red," "chestnut brown," brown- 
ish red," etc. One customer wrote me he desired a doe with 
"dark red" color, and another wanted one "cinnamon brown." 

The term rufous is derived from the latin root rubro, mean- 
ing red. Dictionaries define it as "a dull red tinged with brown." 
Tan nowhere enters into any definition of it; though to define the 
latter perhaps aids in understanding its association with the 
former. 

77 



Tan is defined as "yellowish brown," or "to make brown by 
exposure to the rays of the sun." This would seem to imply 
what is to be conveyed by "golden tan." 

BREEDING FOR COLOR 

Bear in mind from the outset, that to obtain color, even ap- 
proaching correctness, is the most difficult feature associated 
with breeding high class hares. One can breed a thousand speci- 
mens, many among them of excellent shape and good looks in 
general, yet not one in the lot that comes up to finished color 
points. Breeding for color is the ignis f atuus ever present with 
rearing Standard Belgians — "now you have it and now you 
don't" — but there certainly is a large pleasure in "trying to 
catch the thing." 

The first factor toward securing substantial color — and it is 
the substantial kind one wants — lies in the selection of breeding 
stock that is known to throw reliable depth of true tan. With 
this trait thoroughly established in a well built strain, many dis- 
appointments are already conquered. It will cost a bit more to 
start out with breeding stock of reliable reputation, but to 
secure specimens whose blood carry the science of years spent in 
its production, will place one a long ways on the road that has 
been hard traveling for the breeder before, and obviate many 
risks, disappointments, and other troubles that come with infer- 
ior stock. I can fortify this assertion with the assurance that in 
the past eight years not a single specimen marked white on feet 
or shanks has shown itself among my flock, nor a one without 
palpable shade of tan on the belly fur. 

As remarked in a foniier paragraph, the popular color tinge 
at present most prized by many good fanciers, and toward which 
the Fancy in general has been working since the past ten years, 
is "golden tan," so named. A good specimen is quite handsome, 
and to breed for this tinge considerable of a fascination; but I 
question the lasting qualities on account of its proneness to turn 
lighter with each successive generation. Unless one maintains 
constant infusion of blood from darker tans there will eventually 
be too much white. 

A Fancy, I dare say, has somewhat the elements of society 
— an institution of changing moods — so that the color for Bel- 
gians today is by conservative fanciers classed more as a fash- 
ion than a point of lasting quality. 

Whatever point one breeds for, keep constantly in mind that 
the power of transmitting it lies strongest in the procreative 
energy of a properly selected male. This is as true of color as of 

78 



all other physical characteristics. The female is more a medi- 
um through which a species is propagated than by it. Now and 
again one comes across what I shall term a masculine female, or 
a feminine male, if such are paired together, the stronger char- 
acteristic points will have their imprint from the foraier; but 
such matings are undesirable. 

To breed for color, therefore, seek the tinge that is desired 
in a carefully chosen buck. Study and settle in mind just what 
that tinge shall be, then select a male a least bit darker and 
deeper; for it is better to breed with room for "back-breeding," 
than to select too light a tinge from the outset. If one decide 
on "golden tan," mate such a buck with a doe of the "chestnut 
tan" shade, and in both give particular attention to depth of 
undercolor. It is this latter that makes for permanency for the 
future. If "chestnut tan" is to be the tinge, have the doe a trifle 
lighter than the buck. 

Once one has carefully built up a hardy, reliable strain from 
vigorous progenitors, the task to bring just what is desired will 
not be so difficult. But permit me to assure my reader, that hap- 
hazard matings with haphazard selected stock spells failure in 
all the salient points that make for interest in scientific breeding. 
It matters little whether these points imply color or physical 
characteristics, if one desires to build, the foundation must be 
philosophically right. There can be no true interest or enthusi- 
asm possible out of a makeshift source, and if these principles 
are not included in the makeup of prospective fanciers, they had 
better breed for market from the start. 

Personally, I admire "golden tan" color on a Belgian; but for 
permanent quality and persistent reliability, "chestnut tan" ap- 
peals to me as most desirable, and when seen in a specimen of 
rich bloom, there is something about it that speaks for dignity, 
quality and substance of breeding far surpassing the "flashy red" 
which needs continual nursing, 

Speaking of "golden tan" in his book Ambrose says, "one 
must remember that such is the most difficult color to produce 
and maintain, and that it can not be bred successfully without a 
judicious mixture of the deeper colored ones." Then a few lines 
farther on the same author says of the latter, "some, I know, 
pin their faith yet on the old chocolate shade, but these, when 
compared to a correct golden tan, appear absolutely shabby in 
the eyes of those who admire beauty for beauty's sake alone." 

The inconsistency in these quoted lines lies in the fact that 
"deeper colored ones" are an absolute necessity to the existence 
of "golden tans," and to breed the Belgian as a color object of 

79 



"beauty for beauty's sake alone," is superceding the physical 
characteristics that make it a distinct species with a fashionable 
fad. Wilkins, in his excellent description of what he considers 
ideal Hare characteristics, does not there associate color as one 
of them, yet in another part of his book says that "color in the 
Belgians is of first importance — it is the cardinal point." He too, 
like Ambrose, is a worshipper at the shrine of fashion. Indeed, 
the craze for "yellow" has become such a fad, that to placate a 
warning for the future welfare of Belgians is necessary. It has 
come to a pass that what is a prize winning specimen in the 4 to 
8 months classes, and lauded as a wonder, will receive scant 
recognition ten months hence. 

When observing a Belgian Hare from a show point view one 
notes the colors to constitute black, white, and red, the latter 
being the prevailing body effect. Absolute white should be con- 
finad to the under surface of the tail alone, while that of the 
belly and under jaw should be tinged with rufous sufficient to 
give an appearance of rich yellow cream, verging into tan if 
possible. Such a specimen is evidence of reliable color breeding. 

Heretofore, there has been no small contention with points of 
white in the form of bars across the front feet, and streaks along 
inside of hind legs, often spreading over the top and down out- 
side. There is no longer much trouble in this respect, owing to 
better fortified blood lines in well established strains. The fault 
was largely an outcome from admixture of "any old rabbit" by 
unscrupulous dealers in this country and England during the 
boom some fifteen years since. 

What black is apparent must be distributed from shoulders 
along the back, gradually widening down the sides and along the 
haunches, ending on a line across the root of the tail. This evi- 
dence of black is known by the term 

TICKING 
and consists, according to one authority of "long black hairs 
protruding through and among the golden tan ground color, and 
should be crumpled and wavy, and of a jet black." Others sig- 
nify that ticking is constituted of "red hair tipped with chocolate 
black." In harmony with the present tinge of desired "red," 

the latter is nearest correct. 

At this writing I have likely as near the correct "golden tan" 
as is possible to breed, in one of the most delicate colored bucks 
to be seen. Richness of bloom is superb in the light of present 
desired tinge. He is out of a popular imported champion, and 
shows all characteristics of the new "fashion." On sseing him 
hop about the yard, there is scarcely any indication of ticking. 

80 



He appears "red all over," and fairly blazes with golden shimmer 
at twilight (the correct time to estimate true tinge); but when 
placed in sitting posture and the hand is gently stroked over the 
back, ticking comes out in almost solid wavelets over the surface, 
and down the shanks complete. 

Close examination shows the long hairs delicately tipped 
black — a deep chestnut black rather than jet — not more than 3-32 
of an inch from their points, with the remainder of their length 
same hue as their shorter partners in thick profusion about. 

On the other hand, in an adjoining pen is a grandson of 
John Noble's great African Chief, the perfection of chestnut tan. 
This specimen has not a white hair on his body except under side 
of tail; and while the above "golden" chap is an attraction to be 
admired, and would probably win over his partner, there is some- 
thing substantial about this fellow that stands for unchangeable- 
ness in color of a character which one can not do without for 
keeping the golden ones permanent. In this way he is just as 
rich of bloom as the yellow one, and as a breeder far superior for 
reliability. Ticking is alike in both superficially observed, neith- 
er showing waviness until stroked by hand. 

Personally, while I admire a heavily ticked specimen (pro- 
viding "red" beneath is right), too much black does not appeal, 
and few such can be found that will breed desirable rufous as 
associate color. 

What is meant by "wavy ticking" is the black-tipped hairs so 
placed in rather regular splotches as to resemble the effect of 
ripples on the water from a breeze. 

There should be no black hairs on the breast and chest, fore 
legs and hind legs. A small evidence on the head is admissible. 

Aside from the above references to distribution of white 
and black, the remainder of the animal should be "red," other\\'ise 
"g'olden tan" or "chestnut tan," according to the fancy of the 
breeder. 

As a digression, I will insert a bit of relaxation right here: 
While sitting at my desk writing the above anent color, I was 
called out in the yard on a small matter of interest to the chil- 
dren. This attended to, my topic came in mind, and I walked 
over to the hutches v^th the idea of seeing how my pets came up 
to standard about color points I was trying to tell my readers 
in these lines. The day was more than warm (only 96 in the 
shade), and I found 8 brood does on the floors all in like position 
flat on the belly, with fore and hind legs stretched out forward 
and back. They looked distressed of course, but the picture was 

81 



a real pleasure; for here were 8, and 7 of them as like one an- 
other in "color trimmings" as so many peas in a pod. Front 
feet and legs, breast, neck and ears, sides and hind feet and legs, 
so uniform in chestnut tan as to make one believe all came from 
one parent. And those babies with several of them ? Well; they 
were some Belgians in prospective, and I was more than ever 
impressed with the certainty of what I had on previous occasions 
advocated, that to attain best results in all particulars, one must 
mate his Hares in the season when Nature intended they should. 
Kindly bear in mind, too, that in using my stock as illus- 
trative to these remarks, I am not doing so with any advertis- 
ing motive. I breed out of pure pleasure and love for the little 
pets, and for best possible quality entirely as a recreative hobby; 
and to illustrate from it is mere convenience. I have few to sell 
at any time, very limited room to breed Hares, and such poor 
health as to absolutely qualify my efforts. But the pleasure de- 
rived from their keeping is by all odds the keenest enjojnuent I 
got out of any recreation in the past 40 years. But to return: 

Color points as influenced by age are often a perplexing 
feature to those not sufficiently long familiar with the breeding 
of Belgians. They often wonder why youngsters show so light in 
the first eight weeks — a fact apparent in all those bred from light 
tinged stock. This, however, will all change with normal condi- 
tions of growth, and if the strain is a reliable one as to evenness 
of tan, there need scarcely be any fear of white markings. 

Gradually as age advances, color will also, until from six to 
eight months the permanent junior points are complete. In 
England, where shows are held the year round, growth with its 
accompanying color development is often attained at an age of 
four months by a process of forced feeding. 

Permanent senior color, however, invariably follows the molt 
of second summer, and if the tan is of good strain foundation, in- 
tensity, with additional ticking results. To illustrate this point: 
A year since a young fancier friend sent a junior doe, then ten 
months old, to be mated to my imported buck. This doe was ex- 
ceedingly fine in physical characteristics, but quite light "yellow," 
considerable grey on the haunches, with very little but rather 
even ticking. On first seeing her I wondered if my darkest tan 
buck could sufficiently modify the light tan as to produce even 
moderate intensity; but on seeing her pedigree I knew just what 
to do. I knew, also, that with the following molt she would 
greatly improve. This spring (1911) she came back for a second 
mating, and I was surprised at the improved tinge, added tick- 
ing, and almost total disappearance of grey — one of the handsom- 

82 



est brood specimens it was ever my pleasure to see. The mating 
proved beautifully successful, and I am proud to own one of her 
sons as a permanent fixture to my rabbitry. 

As already stated, procreative energy is strongest in the 
male. In the sire are supposed to lie hidden the qualities we wish 
to see brought out as physical characteristics in his offspring. 
These, in the Belgian, include color as well as contour of body 
points, so that whatever permanency to them is to be established 
must be sought for preferably in the sire line. At the same time 
I would not have you lose sight of what possibilities can obtain 
through the female as a medium for transmitting specie charac- 
teristics; for since Belgians are essentially a "made" creature, 
both lines become important. The female, however, should be 
studied from her sire side rather than that of her dam. 

Many fanciers mate by selecting the male for color and the 
female for shape and size; others reverse this selection. It is an 
issue that each fancier can apply as a matter of experiment 
toward an objective point; but unless both sexes are chosen with 
due regard for all characteristics, a much larger degree of 
obvious disappointments will have to be constantly combated, 
with the risk of failure in the end. 

Red, designated as rufous, is therefore what constitutes color 
for all those parts on the Belgian not specified by white and black 
— the latter entirely as ticking. This as already described, varies 
from bright to dark, and is qualified by its tinge as golden and 
chestnut, with tan as the basic element. The deeper down into 
the fur this latter extends, the more valuable the specimen in 
point of Fancy, and if extending to the skin altogether is evi- 
dence of extra quality. 

There is continually some trouble to secure correct color on 
the ears of a Belgian; that is, so these appendages harmonize on 
their superior surface with that of the ground color on the body. 
Often, also, the ears are too bare of fine hairs, almost naked, 
indeed, and then either too light or too brownish. They should 
be very finely covered with exceeding short, red hairs, a nice 
continuation out of the head covering as far up toward the black- 
tipped point as possible. 

Another failing that seems to be the result of fashion breed- 
ing, is whitish-tipped toes — not bars — but a soft cushion of pale 
hairs where the nails set in. This is not a very evident failing, 
but by oversight in mating is liable to become objectionably pro- 
nounced. Now and then one sees a specimen, usually a bright 
red chap, with white hairs mingled throughout its body coat. 

83 



Concerning this they make a loud noise over in the Old Country, 
and Ambrose says it is a "very serious defect which should at all 
costs be avoided." They are willing to admit the "defect" as a 
result of in-breeding, yet advocate the latter with a tenacity 
bordering on the pugnacious. Best of all, use no specimens 
whose coats are distinctly marred by alien hairs of white; but at 
the same time do not throw aside otherwise good ones when such 
hairs are "far and between," for we must remember that alien 
white hairs are quite frequently the effect of injury to hair foll- 
icles from a scratch with the claw, a bump, or bite during a scrap. 

Furthermore, our friends "across the pona" are decidedly 
finicky about the effect of sunlight as a bleacher to the red. That 
persistent exposure to sun rays will tan is well understood, but 
that Belgians ought to be reared devoid of this invigorating in- 
fluence on this account, is begging an issue; and that moderate 
exposure will be a detriment is also open to question. As an ex- 
periment I placed one of the bright red chaps in an open, un- 
covered yard, with no protection other than several boxes against 
rain. The sun shines in this yard up to 2 P. M., yet this fellow 
shows no bleaching after a four month's test, with the tempera- 
ture above 94 for a week at a time. However, as a matter of 
comfort I have my hutches roofed over for protection against 
both heat and rain, since wet is a whole lot more undesirable 
than heat or cold. 

A serious mistake often made that eventually proves detri- 
mental to color effect, is mating specimens before sufficiently 
matured, or before adult bloom is fully attained so as one may 
know what to expect. It is a physiological certainty, that while 
the reproductive sphere can be responsive to its functions at a 
comparatively early age, its fruit thus early produced can not 
attain that permanency in physiological characteristics which 
come from stamina out of a mature body. To come within all 
physical expectations, then, it is well to permit the reproductive 
organs as much time for organic functional perfection as the 
rest of the body; and remember, that once the reproductive 
sphere is drawn on for functional duty, virtually all life of the 
being concentrates in that direction, and at the expense of every 
fiber in it. 



84 



Breeding for Shape 

BREEDING FOR SHAPE MATING 

A careful study of the topic that relates to Physical Charac- 
teristics, along with the immediate preceding one about color 
points, will give practically all essentials that enter into breed- 
ing for both shape and color. Analyze the former intelligently, 
and apply the latter in connection so near as it can possibly be 
adapted. Use judgment and common sense with what science of 
breeding one has available. Adjust inferior points in one with 
superior ones in the other, and remember continually that from 
the sire emanate the blood line qualities for which we aim. 

I have no doubt about not a few fanciers taking issue with 
my views concerning my contention for superiority in the sire. 
I have not the least objection, and entirely appreciate that the 
nearest approach to absolute fact is derived from deductions out 
of our differences. Yet I must write as I believe, out of actual 
experience and considerable research; and is it not a fact that 
in Hares, as in all other stock breeding efforts, the sire has first 
place whenever there is inquiry after new blood lines ? 

But Ambrose says, "Success is, to my mind, much more read- 
ily secured through the does than through the sires. It is the 
mothers which perpetuate the main characteristics, and yet every 
one appears to crave so much for sires." The universal law of 
propagation does not justify the idea advanced in this quotation, 
nor can it be substantiated unless by instances that are excep- 
tions to general rules. Which is not saying, however, that any 
sort of mongrel female will reproduce quality stock from a high 
class sire. Such an inference is not thought of in these remarks, 
for I am speaking of stock that is supposed thoroughbred on 
both sides. 

There is no question that our present fashionable Belgian 
Hares are largely the result of breeding from young animals. 
Such a method conduces to fineness in physical features, and has 
been a leading factor, no doubt, toward getting the prominence 
of an objectionable dewlap greatly decreased. I doubt not, 
though, but that all so far accomplished has been done at con- 
siderable expense of constitutional stamina; and whether we are 
justified to make the sacrifice merely for the sake of a less useful 
yet more beautiful animal, I leave for each one's individual 
analysis. 

A few years since I wrote one of our leading fanciers for his 
opinion about mating. This is his reply: "In mating for results 

85 



I select the doe for shape and the buck for color. To eliminate 
defects I mate a doe strong in sections of shape to a buck strong 
in color. I do this with two pairs suited to each other, then 
select a buck of the one to mate with a doe of the other, and find 
my efforts have been rewarded." Evidently his ideas run parallel 
with those of Ambrose. 

Another fancier of equal prestige, and who has made it con- 
siderable of a specialty to breed for shape, lays all success to the 
merits of a prominent sire strain imported nearly twenty years 
since; and I will qualify this by quoting what Wilkins believes is 
a sire's part in the mating: "The buck plays such an important 
part in the characteristics of the young in all points, and particu- 
larly in color, style, shape, fineness of bone, and head properties, 
that it is absolutely necessary he must be good in these points." 
It is from differences like these quoted that we must acquire our 
experience; for after all opinions are weighed, there is but one 
sensible course — use the best available specimens "on both 
sides of the family." 

My personal experience has been entirely from well chosen 
sire lines, and I am quite satisfied with it. I am convinced it is 
the correct course. Under the topic Physical Characteristics will 
be seen described what is demanded as correct shape. Study that 
carefully, and frame the picture in a prominent section of the 
mind, then compare with the stock intended for mating, and pair 
up as close to all points of quality as possible, always with the 
side of preponderance on that of the male. 

It is often important to be as well informed with regard to 
defects, as with points of perfection. If anything, the former 
give more trouble than the latter. To one specially significant (I 
am not naming it a defect) I will call attention here — that of 
"choppy behind." This is an abrupt decline of the spinal bones 
from a line across the hips to the root of the tail, giving the 
animal, in many instances, almost an angular appearance. The 
nearer an unbroken arch is shown by the spinal curve from 
directly behind the shoulders to the root of the tail, the better 
will all other outlines harmonize. I doubt if this failing is much 
a result of strain, as it is from small quarters and consequent 
lack of jumping exercise. 

Also avoid thick heads, lopped ears, and legs that stand 
distinctly in or out. 

I have often been asked as to the propriety of breeding from 
stock that carries the tail sidewise. When specimens of high 
quality are otherwise available I would not use such; but if a 

86 



specimen of excellent points in all other respects, with just this 
one failing, I should not hesitate to use it — providing the anato- 
my of the tail is perfect. Physical defects are always apparent 
at birth, so that by careful examination of youngsters, all un- 
promising ones can be destroyed. What will turn out as a 
^'twisted tail" can be clearly seen before the youngster is three 
days old. It is an anatomical malformation due to only partially 
developed vertebrae, or the ligaments that hold them together. 
But if the miniature tail shows straight at birth, and subsequent- 
ly "floats" to one or the other side, it will be a condition of habit 
or overgrowth, rather than a defect. I don't like a "floating tail," 
but when there is no physical defect, an otherwise good specimen 
should not be condemned on this account alone. 

I have noticed that rapid growth, all the more when inten- 
sified by humid warm weather, is a contributing factor toward 
this failing. Likewise, inactivity enforced by small quarters. 

Above all, do not mate specimens not in their full vigor. 
Shape will be influenced by a diseased body. 



Breeding, Building Up a Strain and Inbreeding 

Associated with the breeding of every species of live stock 
there is continually present this persistent bugbear that relates 
to inbreeding — the theories for and against it. Inherent within 
one's self, no one seems to like it, yet in the regular order of 
breeding for specific points there appears no other way. 

We all are repugnant of the idea associated with mixing 
blood of relations, and when it comes to pairing father with 
daughter, brother with sister, or son with mother, we just natur- 
ally think this is dreadful. 

Regarding such matings in the human family, both Bible and 
Law has set a ban against it, yet it could not have been otherwise 
than from such relationship that every species of living thing 
emanated, if we are to believe the story of Creation, the Flood, 
of doddering old Lot, and other instances of sacred and profane 
history. But the subject is one that can be made a volume by 
itself so that I shall limit myself conservatively. 

One primary factor is, to what extent will psychological in- 
fluence bear on sex combination. With regard to the human 
species, science has evolved the knowledge of relationship be- 
tween mind and matter, and it is believed the former can mater- 
ially influence the latter; hence the social and legal ban against 
the mingling of related blood. 

87 



In creatures of the animal kingdom psychology is supposed 
to have no part, and therefore inbreeding can not influence tissue 
formation. Mr. Noble says, "In the lower animals there is no- 
mental strain to take into consideration," nor can there be any 
knowledge among them that the remotest blood-relationship 
exists. I have in a number of instances observed, in dogs we'll 
say, that a certain endowment of memory is apparent. After 
considerable association, sudden separation for some period 
(quite long, one would think), and subsequent coming together 
again, joyful recognition was manifest; but the matter of blood- 
relationship never seemed the least check to familiarity. Often,, 
also, have I noted the gradual growth of a litter of kittens, baby 
pigs, a pair of pigeons, half a dozen puppies, a young lamb, and 
a "nest" of Belgians, with a view to studying the length and per- 
manency of filial relationship and parental affection; but in 
every instance, so soon as the parent voluntarily "weaned" its 
young, there was apparent no further consideration for it than 
that of tolerated companionship, and often not that. In the 
light of these facts, Mr. Noble practically asks — "I am still wait- 
ing to know why I should not put together any pair of rabbits, 
that from outward appearances, are perfectly suitable in every 
respect, both physically and for producing exhibition points." 

Another breeder says, "I never consider blood-relationship 
at all, and do not hesitate to pair father with daughter, or broth- 
er with sister." 

In no country, perhaps, is in-breeding made a practice in the 
rearing of live stock as is applied to every species of it in Eng- 
land. It seems an obsession, and a sensible one, mayhap, over 
there. Rabbits, and Belgians in particular, have been so long 
in-bred that Ambrose remarks concerning it, "We sometimes 
think we are using quite another strain, when in reality we find, 
on inquiry, that the stock is not far removed from those which 
we ourselves are depending upon for success." 

I do not wish to set myself down authoritatively as individu- 
ally advocating either cross-breeding, line-breeding, or in-breed- 
ing — rather as remarking of each impartially; but I am not 
averse to an acknowledgment, until better informed, that a care- 
ful study, associated with personal experiments, of the more 
recent points and developments relative to the breeding of live 
stock, has modified my views largely in harmony with those of 
Dr Schroeder, Superintendent of the U. S. Bureau of Animal In- 
dustry, who says, "I am strongly inclined to believe that the evils 
attributed to in-breeding have been greatly over-rated." 



It is interesting to note what the U. S. Department of Agri- 
culture is doing through its several subsidiary divisions by way 
of experimenting along all principal lines that relate to mating 
of the different species of domestic animals and fowls. Special 
attention is given the Mendel theory, as laid down by the monk 
of this name, whose work consisted entirely, it appears, in exper- 
imenting with plants. Government experts believed that the law 
discovered by hybridizing vegetables and flowers, would hold 
out with similar effect when applied to breeding live stock; and 
while not carried far in this direction as yet, indications point to 
successful results. 

Briefly, the Mendel theory is that of "inheritance of ances- 
tral traits," or plainly that of in-breeding. It embodies the prin- 
ciple of dominancy and recession in succeeding generations, and 
implies, also, that each subsequent third generation in a lineal 
descent is characterized by predominant physical points of merit 
to demerit in the ratio of three to one. That is, in a third gen- 
eration there appear three "dominants" to one "recessive," and 
it is by mating continually out of the former that eventual per- 
fection in thorough breeding is attained. 

I have neither time or space to remark at length on the 
numerous scientific points involved in line — and in-breeding, but 
it appears the only logical course for the attainment of specific 
^characteristics. 

There are three forms of breeding as classified by the terms 
cross-breeding, line-breeding, and in-breeding. These are defined 
as follows: 

CROSS-BREEDING is the mating of two thoroughbred 
breeds of diverse species, as the Hackney and Trotting horse, 
Aldemey and Holstein cow. Bulldog and Hound, Belgian and 
Flemish, or Dutch or Silver, etc. Subsequent matings of such 
offspring can be line- or in-bred. 

LINE-BREEDING is mating individual specimens of a breed 
when interruption in relationship exists by remoteness. 

IN-BREEDING is the mating of close related ones of the 
same species. 

Line-breeding is illustrated by the subjoined pedigree dia- 
gram representing straight line descent for both sire and dam. 
For convenience J will name two pair by Sheriden mated to 
Bessie, and Roger to Queenie: 



89 





Sheriden III 


Sheriden II 


Bessie 




Sheriden 




Queenie II 




Bessie 




Bessie III 




Roger 




Roger II 


Sheriden IV 


Queenie 




Roger 




Bessie II 




Queenie 








Sheriden 







In-breeding needs no illustration, since it implies the mating 
of direct relations, as, father to daughter; son to mother; brother 
to sister; father to daughter by brother and sister; mother to 
son by daughter and brother, etc. 

With regard to this latter form of breeding the U. S. Bureau 
of Animal Industry has bred brother and sister mated in se- 
quence order down to the 10th generation. Cavies being the 
example, and regarding which Dr. Schroeder writes me, "We 
have found nothing to indicate that the intensest form of in- 
breeding, carried on for nine or ten generations, is injurious. 
That for the preservation and perpetuation of especially fine 
points, and for the establishment of new breeds through the 
selection of naturally occurring mutations we are practically 
forced to resort to in-breeding." 

It was apparent that the 9th generation in this instance was 
represented by as good health, vigor and Standard points of 
merit, as the parent stock of the 1st; and, if anything, all points 
were finely accentuated. The experiment also appeared to show 
a predominance of the "dominant" elements over the "recessive" 
in every 3rd sequence. 

Here is an example of absolute straight line descent without 
a vestige of foreign blood from the second mating on, yet no 
deterioration in a single element. 

One factor stands out pre-eminently above all others in its 
relation to breeding, no matter along what line the latter is 
practiced — that of health, and the possibilities from heredity. 
One should never mate specimens containing physical defects^ 
nor when affected with disease whose transmission is known to 
influence the offspring. I am not alluding to physical faults, nor 



90 



to diseases that are curable by proper treatment. These will not 
transmit defects; but in the event of in-breeding, essentially close 
in-breeding, physical defects will likely be greatly accentuated, 
and constitutional disease all the more. 

To start breeding, do not begin haphazard. Become ac- 
quainted beforehand with the salient principles involved. 

The indiscriminate mixing of bloodlines without any knowl- 
edge of results, is like trying to steer a ship without a rudder. 
Don't pin faith on the mere assertion that like reproduces like, 
for unless one knows how Nature does this, she may shoot very 
wide of the mark. She has immutable laws by which she works, 
and reproduces defects just as likely as points of merit. She 
dabbles intimately with the phenomena of heredity. 

Study carefully the chapter that relates to physical charac- 
teristics, and apply its qualifications to both sire and dam, with 
their preponderance in favor of the former. This means all that 
is embodied in shape and color. But when purchasing, never ask 
for a perfect specimen; for there is none. All domestic varieties 
of rabbits are what they are by virtue of being "made" so, hence 
imperfections continuously crop out. So when buying from a re- 
liable fancier who is a real breeder, say to what you aspire 
rather than just what you want; for it is not always that what 
appears the most ideal specimens from a show Standard which 
will reproduce their kind in exact duplicate. The matter of gen- 
ealogy must never be forgotten, nor that of dominancy for the 
prevailing traits. Buy from a breeder who understands the 
science associated with the art of propagating a species, then 
build up one's own strain. 

Building up a strain implies a start with specimens selected 
to represent certain qualities and then enlarging these by a 
process of development and elimination. That is, points of merit 
are to improve, and those of demerit bred out. 

I am presuming one is starting out as a novice with the idea 
of occupying a position in the Fancy. In such event, as said, buy 
from a reliable fancier breeder whose strain has the reputation of 
careful building up for a number of years. See that the stock is 
free from constitutional disease. Select specimens that repre- 
sent, at the present desire "golden tan," or yellow rufous, and 
those of the "chestnut tan" or real rufous. To maintain the 
former persistently requires the latter. Neither in itself, will 
breed true continuously without variation. The "golden tan" is 
liable to shade into lighter, while the "chestnut tan" has a ten- 
dency toward brown, with an excess of ticking; but by a careful 
adjustment of blood lines in the two, one can always expect 
desirable show specimens. 

91 



The matter of mating related specimens I leave for study- 
by the fancier after a careful perusal of the views brought out 
in the foregoing remarks. 

PEDIGREE 

This is also a bugbear that is not a specially creditable one 
in the rabbit fancy. That it is discreditable is no fault of the 
topic, and that contemptible fraud is practiced by falsifying the 
lineage of a specimen does not prove that a record of blood lines 
represented by a given strain is not the right thing to maintain. 

I hold that, notwithstanding all the howl sent up by those 
who antagonize pedigree, it is the only course for the main- 
tenance of a true knowledge of one's stock. I have not yet ob- 
served one make a consistent argument against pedigree, and 
those who are noisiest in antagonism are the most earnest to 
know what they buy as represented in a reliable record of line- 
age. That a fakir can fake is quite true; but not more so than 
that an honest breeder is honest. As a rule, a specimen carries 
inherently the qualities it possesses, and these are always palp- 
able to the informed observer who knows what they ought to be. 

By all means keep a record of every animal bred along thor- 
ough lines. Without a record of its lineage, what can be known 
regarding its possibilities for the future. Deductions are impos- 
sible without a recorded formula that leads to results. However,, 
any discussion of this topic is superfluous for the reason that it 
is a universal rule among stock breeders of all varieties of 
thoroughbred domestic animals, is the sole guide to success, and 
if not maintained one had as well do a market business from 
the outset. 

STANDARD 
I believe I can best serve the interests of all bleeders by re- 
producing both Standards — The National Belgian Hare Club of 
England, and The American Revised Standard of Excellence for 
Belgian Hares. The English Standard is as follows: 

Points 
COLOR: Rich rufous-red (not dark smudgy color), carried 
well down sides and hind quarters, and as little white 

under jaws as possible 20 

SHAPE: Body long, thin, well tucked-up flank, and well rib- 
bed up, back slightly arched, loins well rounded, not chop- 
py, head rather lengthy, muscular chest, tail straight, not 

screwed, and altogether of a racy appearance 20 

TICKING: Rather wavy in appearance and plentiful 10 

92 



EARS : About five inches, thin, well laced on tips, and as far 
down outside edges as possible, good color inside and out- 
side, and well set on 10 

EYE: Hazel color, large, round, bright and bold 10 

LEGS AND FEET: Fore feet and legs long, straight, slen- 
der, well colored and free from white bars, hind feet well 

colored 10 

Without dewlap 10 

SIZE : About eight pounds 5 

CONDITION: Perfectly healthy, not fat, but flesh firm like 
a race-horse, and good quality of fur 5 

100 
COMMENT: The above Standard, while complete in a way, 
is yet open to many points of inquiry, especially by the beginner; 
and were one to select breeding stock with absolutely no other 
available information, I fear there would have to be considerable 
guessing. There are quite some few persons who have never 
seen a typical Belgian, and should such an one wish to learn what 
a hare was like, and have a reprint of the Standard sent him as 
the best guide to a knowledge of it, that person, no matter how 
intelligent he might be — ^well, imagine what he would make out 
of it. I say this without the least intent at reflection or sarcasm; 
for one cannot fail to note a vein of indefiniteness through it all . 
Observe the following points in order: — 

First — "Color." Can the uninformed say what rufous-red 
is? To most it must be entirely new; for it is never seen in 
print in connection with any object or other animal than the 
hare — at least very rarely, if at all — and it being the foremost 
point as to characteristic and merit, and the greatest "bone of 
contention," I think a careful and lucid definition would have 
been the correct thing. "Carried well down the sides and hind 
quarters" is quite indefinite, and without proportion. 

Second — "As little white under the jaw as possible." A 
good, typical specimen is supposed to have no true white, but a 
creamy tinge through what there is, as though the pure white 
had been soaked in rufous-red just sufficient to taint it. 

Third — "Body long." How long would a mature hare pos- 
sibly span if nicely flattened in a belly posture ? It would help a 
lot to differentiate from the "squeezed together" pudgy ones. 
By taking a front view along the back, how does length harmon- 
ize with the neat, narrow, gamey looking head which is obviously 
only "rather lengthy"? If a typical specimen weighs "about 

93 



eight pounds," all other points being in harmony, it should be 
exceptionally long in body from tip to tip. Isn't this logical ? 
**Thin, well tucked-up flank, and well ribbed-up is open to wide 
construction with a long body and the 'back slightly arched' only. 
A body of this description would seem most harmonious with 
considerable grace in what the American Standard calls an 
"unbroken curve." 

Fourth — "Ticking — rather wavy," is indefinite with the 
rather. It is desired "wavy" in fact, as well as "appearance," 
and this wavy appearance is only on certain parts of the animal, 
we know, though the Standard don't say. For all this it might be 
on the sides and belly, as well as on the arched part of the saddle 
— all over the hare, in fact. One should have it said just where. 

Fifth — "Ears — about five inches" — about the correct length 
for a hare that weighs "about 8 pounds." This appears harmon- 
ious; but "well laced on tips" does not. The word tip means "the 
point of anything small," and a small point can not have any- 
thing of quantity upon it. Now if the "outside edges" were "well 
laced" around the tip, say one inch, or one and one-half from the 
point down the foreside, the description would be definite. And 
the color of them — ^it don't say — but elsewhere is given as a 
"rich shade to match the body in some degree." 

Sixth — "Fore feet and legs long.". Here again one having 
never seen a Crystal Palace winner cannot possibly say how these 
should harmonize with an eight pound specimen, and for both the 
feet and legs to be long, it would seem proper to signify how the 
two lengths are apportioned. In the chapter on Physical Charac- 
teristics some idea is given in this clause — "they should be long, 
fine, and well set on, so placed as to lift the forepart of the body 
well from the ground," which would mean something like six 
inches. Of the hind legs one must form a general idea as to 
length. 

Seventh — "Without dewlap" — which, buck, or doe, or both? 
There are, however, few specimens of does entirely free of it, 
and judges say a small dewlap is admissable. This fact should 
be stated, and the cut in points specified. 

Eighth — "Condition" is open to a wide range of interpre- 
tation. 

The following is the American Revised Standard of Excell- 
ence for Belgian Hares. Adopted by the National Belgian Hare 
Club of America, June 8th, 1901: 



94 



DISQUALIFICATIONS 

1 — Lopped or fallen ear, or ears. 

2 — ^White toe, or toes; white front foot or feet; white bar or 

bars on same. 
3 — Decidedly crooked front foot or feet, leg or legs. 
4 — Wry tail or absence of tail. 
5 — Specimen blind in one eye. 

6 — Mature specimens short of five pounds in weight. 
7 — Diseased animals. 

QUALIFICATIONS 

SIZE Points 

SIZE — A mature specimen should weigh as much as IV2 

lbs. (10 months of age) 5 

EYES — Should be large, comparative to size of specimen ... 2 
EARS — Should be as long as five inches when specimen 

is rated 2 

FORE LEGS — Should be long, in forearm, comparative to 

size of specimen 2 

HIND LEGS — Should be long comparative to size of 

specimen 2 

SHAPE 

SHAPE OF NECK AND BREAST— Should be firm, with no 
loose skin pendant in the form of a pouch or dewlap 10 

HEAD — Uniformly long, narrow and not too deep, compara- 
tive to size of specimen 4 

BODY — ^Very long in vertebrae, between coupling of hips 
and ^oint of shoulder blades 4 

FLANK AND RIBS— Flanks well tucked up, ribs well 
curved, thus showing a cylinder-shaped body, said cylinder 
to be comparatively small in circumference for the weight 
of the animal. A specimen much larger around the body 
at point of stomach than it is at point of heart, is defective, 
as pouchy or Kangaroo shape is undesirable 4 

BACK— Should be slightly and evenly arched, free from 
abrupt projections at rump or from flat or concave places 
— in short, a regular unbroken curve 2 

LOIN— Should be full and well rounded 2 

EYES — Should be round and bold, free from encrouchment 
by lids, or a flat retreating appearance 2 

EARS— Should be well set on and persistently held in grace- 
ful style. When the attention of the animal is not attract- 

95 



ed forward the ears should habitually take up a position 
that lines up the three position, viz: One-fourth inch 
ba,ck of nostrils, on nose; one-half inch foi'ward from apex 
of skull, on head; and adopted ear-mark No. 3 on ear; 
which is at beginning of perfect ear-lacing on thick edge 
of ear. The ears should not be broad or spoon-shaped, but 
when posed, neatly folded and persistently carried to- 
gether at tips 2 

FORE-LEGS, SHAPE— Should be straight in bone and firm 
in joint, neither coaching to one side or the other or weak- 
ening down at joint appreciably when tested 2 

COLOR 

TICKING — Ticking is the black points on the red hairs of 
the Belgian. Surface effect is what is considered. Three 
things are necessary to produce the desired effect — Quan- 
tity, Quality and Distribution. Quantity should be in a 
proportion of 25 per cent, of black to 75 of rufous red. 
In quality we wish the most pronounced black and the 
most distinct red obtainable in order to produce the nec- 
essary contrast of colors. As to distribution, the black, 
should be distributed in tones or waves over the red back- 
ground, which gives a pleasing effect. Ticking effect 
should be view as a whole from a position at right angles 
to surface of arch at point of couplings on rump 10 

STRAY HAIRS— Colored sections of the animal should not 
be encroached upon by having white hairs contained there- 
in, thus marring the. beauty of their respective require- 
ments 4 

BODY COLOR — Is hereby construed to mean the parts of 
the Belgian that are not otherwise provided for by this 
Standard and have special reference to back, above side 
color, and above the back of color on hind-quarters, also 
to head and breast. Rich rufous red is the required color, 
defined by Webster as being a reddish-brown-red, perhaps 
more clearly defined by describing it as a deep cherry red 
carrying a dull rusty effect. The head may carry a very 
small amount of ticking and the breast should be entirely 
free from it 5 

COLOR OF SIDES— Should be 60 per cent, of absolute per- 
fection in body color and should be carried well down to a 
distinct junction with belly color 4 

COLOR OF HINDQUARTERS— Should be 60 per cent, of 
absolute perfection in side color or 36 per cent, of abso- 

96 



lute perfection in boay color. Should be considered from 
standpoint of surface color and depth of color as well .... 4 

COLOR OF HIND FEET— Should be a clear golden rufous, 
with no tendency to white on top or blueish or smudgy cast 
at side 4 

COLOR UNDER JAW— Should be a rich, deep cream color, 
not to show out noticeably when viewed from a side posi- 
tion at an angle of 50 degrees elevation 3 

COLOR OF BELLY— Should be a bright cream; neither a 
pure white nor a deep or cinnamon color 2 

COLOR OF EYES— Should be a rich hazel, resembling some- 
what a finely penciled chestnut shade of brown 2 

EAR LACING — Should begin on thick edge of the ear, one- 
fourth way from tip to base and should extend round the 
point of ear to slightly past, an equal distance down the 
thin edge of the ear. Should be a jet black and confined 
closely to the edge of the ear, averaging about twice the 
width on the thick edge that it does on the thin edge .... 2 

COLOR OF EARS— Should be a bright golden shade of 
rufous, and entirely free from ticking; neither should it be 
encroached upon by ear-lacing beyond the proper location 
for same 2 

COLOR OF FORE LEGS— Should be a rich, rufous red, free 
from ticking and smudginess 2 

QUALITY 

QUALITY OF EYES— Should be bright and expressive, in- 
dicative of health and vigor 2 

QUALITY OF EARS— Should be thin toward tips, fine in 
texture and pliable, moderately well covered with close 
coat of hair 2 

QUALITY OF FORE LEGS— Should be fine in bone com- 
parative to size of specimen, and not coarse and beefy in 
flesh 2 

QUALITY OF HIND LEGS— Should not be coarse for 
weight of specimen 2 

CONDITION OF FLESH— Should be firm and solid, and 
specimen closely skinned and neat and free from recent 
blemish 2 

CONDITION OF FUR— Specimen should be close coated; 
fur well set on and free from moult; also clean and smooth 
with unbroken surface 2 

—100 
97 



COMMENT — I think the active existence of the National 
Belgian Hare Club of America has ceased, and I am not sure that 
the Standard of it as above reproduced has had more than tran- 
sient recognition. At any rate, the \^ording in many respects is 
superfluous, and were the English Standard just a bit more lucid 
— or, shall I say, if the superfluous were removed from the Amer- 
ican, and added to the English, the latter could likely be best 
understood by the beginner. It is a pity that both are not what 
one could desire, and I believe a complete and very careful recon- 
sideration of the Belgian as typically bred today in England and 
this country, would recommend itself to the fancy as most 
commendable. 

When it comes to ^laving an American Standard, as possibly 
many American fanciers would wish — and with good reason it 
would of necessity have to be adjusted to the English type of 
Belgian, and consequently only a modification of the English 
Standard. In view of this fact I think it would be well for me 
to submit a study for the Standard of the Belgian Hare which T 
have prepared, having given it careful consideration along every 
possible line. I feel that it may be a future guide for the for- 
mation of a Standard that can be readily accepted by all. 

Study for the Standard of the Belgian Hare 

REMARKS — A Standard for judging Belgians should con- 
stitute sufficient verbiage to make every passage clear and free 
from misleading descriptives. 

The true Virgin Hare, to whatever country it may be "indi- 
genous" has never been domesticated, nor has it been hybridized 
(so far as definitely known) by admixture of blood from any 
species of either wild or domestic rabbit. The attempt was 
made but failed, notwithstanding obvious claims. 

In other words, the Hare — lepus timidus — has maintained 
its zoological identity quite as individual as the elephant, lion, or 
tiger. 

The animal we breed under the name Belgian Hare is not 
at all of the species lepus — it is purely a species of rabbit bred 
to a high degree of perfection. Belgian (Belgium) breeders, I 
believe, claim priority to this species; but in that country nothing 
near approaching the type bred in England is produced, and Eng- 
lish fanciers can justly claim title to its present perfection. The 
Belgian Hare as reared in America (I mean the typical Belgian) 
is entirely the product of breeding stock imported from England, 
and it is the English species of it, so to say, that we must of 

98 



necessity propagate, unless we hybridize away from the Hare 
type and create an obvious one along rabbit lines. 

We may be able to, by reason of climate environment, and 
other possible influences, produce possibly somewhat of an Amer- 
ican ideal though I see no advantage nor likely consummation in 
the attempt, nor would I advise it. 

SIZE — The classic breeder clearly understands what size has 
to do with breeding the typical Belgian Hare. The uninformed 
has not, and unless size is made a part of type and intelligently 
standardized, it becomes objectionable in that it destroys the 
Hare characteristic. Hare type stands for raciness, and this can 
not obtain when bulk is leading requirement; and there are not a 
few, I am sorry to say, who think this sacrifice should be made, 
and to whom I would suggest that if a large rabbit is desired for 
utility purposes make one by hybridizing the Belgian and Flem- 
ish, or Flemish and Silver. 

I believe it would be considerable advantage to type if the 
present weight of eight pounds were reduced a trifle, and a more 
specific classification made. The following weights, I think, 
would admit of all practical latitude for Standard results of 
breeding for racy type: 

Does above 10 months old 7 to 7% lbs. 

Does 8 to 10 months old 6 to 7 lbs. 

Bucks above 10 months old 6V2 to 7 lbs. 

Bucks 8 to 10 months old 6 to 61/2 lbs. 

All specimens under 10 months old to be considered as 
youngsters, and for judging are classed by months limit of age 
and rated by comparatives. 

WHITE — There has been much discussion among foremost 
fanciers as to how much white — understood as white-bellied and 
grey haunches — should be tolerated to pass Standard criticism. 

It is a fact that there exists an innate propensity in all ani- 
mals of vari-colored fur coats to change from dark to lighter 
shade incident to season or age. The reason is a physiological 
one, and should be considered when judging an animal of domes- 
tic breeding if this characteristic is apparent. To allow certain 
degrees of white and grey (with consideration of the above phe- 
nomena) appropriately placed without jeopardizing the standard 
body color, would appear admissible. In other words, a speci- 
men answering to every characteristic of type and color features 
should not be thrown out unless the white on belly and under jaw 
and grey on haunches exceeds a qualified per cent, into the 
other color (rufous). 

99 



DEWLAP — This appendage is characteristic of the rabbit 
species, and NOT of the Hare. Its presence is evidence of 
"breeding back" to an original rabbit strain. The nearer free 
(and absolutely, if possible) a Belgian Hare strain is kept of it 
by scientific breeding, the closer a pure Hare type will it attain. 
But since- the present Belgian is withal NOT a Hare per se, its 
presence to a degree is justifiable, and should not debar a speci- 
men from qualifying in its class. 

[NOTE — The dewlap is not a deformity, nor a disqualifying 
characteristic, unless so abnormally large as to make it such, and 
clearly indicate the specimen to be entirely foreign to the Belgian 
Hare type. It so happens that many otherwise good specimens 
show this appendage in various degrees of development; but 
which was not apparent prior to maternity, or a certain age, 
which have reproduced others entirely free from it. These fac- 
tors should be considered when judging; but a male specimen 
with more than a mere evidence of dewlap, is to say the least, 
undesirable as a stock-getter, and should be disqualified if it is 
akin to that in a doe. The dewlap should not be confused with a 
not infrequent udder-like enlargement of the breast incident to 
maternity and which will disappear after the nursing period (un- 
less the doe is again soon bred).] 

COLOR — Much discussion and sometimes very caustic, was 
had as to what constitutes rufous red. According to some auth- 
orities,, it is a term that admits of a varied interpretation, and 
the dictionaries define it as identifying a compound color. 

The term rufous is from the latin rubro, meaning red. Spell- 
ed r-u-f-u-s, is the technical Latin form and is translated r-u-f- 
o-u-s, meaning a shade of red ; but nowhere is any reason essayed 
why it should identify as brownish-red or a "red tinged toward 
brown," as dictionaries define the term. 

Breeders, according to their fancy, contend for "golden 
chestnut" as the correct shade; some say "golden tan" as still 
more ideal, and others again say "chestnut tan" — so on pro and 
con, with no one exactly satisfied. Because of this contention, 
therefore, I make the term as clear as we at present understand 
it. Brownish-red is all that can be analyzed out of the term 
rufous. Of gold there is a light and dark shade according to per 
cent, of alloy present; but virgin gold is a characteristic tinge, 
shade or color, as you please, of specific identity. There is no 
tinge just like it. Of tan and chestnut there are degrees of 
shade; but it is that shade defined as brownish-red with which 
we have apparently to do and it is the degrees of intensity, there- 

100 



fore, of this latter tinge from light to dark that must constitute 
one's judgment of what we understand as rufous. To formulate 
an ideal color effect in harmony with the conception of the term 
one will reason thus — take virgin gold as the standard for red, 
and the dark shade of a ripe chestnut for brown; tone down the 
density of the latter with the mellow tinge of the former, and 
you have rufous as it should show on the Belgian Hare. 

TYPE — This term has also caused much discussion, all I 
trow, due to either misconception or misunderstanding, or pos- 
sibly both. A small knowledge of Natural History, Biology, and 
a bit of Comparative Anatomy, will harmonize definitives nicely 
so we can apply the word shape as being more commonly clear. 

In its compactness type virtually IS shape, though many will 
haggle otherwise; but what I wish to convey by both (if you 
please) is — the physical characteristics of the animal one ob- 
serves as a whole, or perhaps more desirably, an ideal whole. 
Literally it means "a stamp or mark"; that is, an impress, con- 
tour, outline, or physical conformity to a prescribed pattern — if 
the latter term is allowed. Color is a nominal characteristic; but 
is not essentially a part of type. The type that should "stamp" 
the Belgian Hare as ideal must portray raciness — slender, reachy 
body; thin, firm and lengthy limbs; narrow, racy-looking head; 
bright, bold, attentive eyes; ears long, thin, almost transparent, 
and continually posed for attention — the animal altogether por- 
traying a qui vive entirely free from sluggishness, slouch and 
pudginess. 

Standard of Points 

DISQUALIFICATIONS 

(1) — Mature specimens weighing less than six pounds. 

(2) — Thick, compact, pudgy shape of head, body, or legs, and 
evidence of other than typical Belgian Hare qualifications as 
hereafter defined. 

(3) — Deformity of one or both ears not due to accident; 
either lopped or wry, or less than 4l^ inches in length. 

(4) — Hereditary deformity or blindness in one or both eyes, 
or of foreign color other than shades of hazel. 

(5) — Feet marked on top with white, especially forefeet, or 
white bars across the toes. Legs bowed inward or outward, or 
deformed (except by accident). 

(6) — Wry tail or twist, not due to accident or habit; or entire 
absence of tail. 

(7) — Diseased specimens. 

101 



QUALIFICATIONS 

Points 
SIZE — Mature specimens above 10 months old — Does 7 to 
71/2 lbs.; Bucks, 6V2 to 7 lbs. 

From 8 to 10 months old — Does 6^/^ to 7 lbs.; Bucks 6 to 
6V2 lbs. Under 8 months are considered as youngsters, 
and are in limited months classes. Above 8 lbs. is consid- 
ered overweight 5 

EYES — Should be round, bold and attentive, free from en- 
croaching lids, and of hazel color. There must be no 
evidence of flatness or of appearing to retreat 4 

EARS — Correct length for mature specimens, five inches, 
measured from crown of the skull between the ears along 

the convex ridge to the tip 4 

Ears must be gracefully set, close together that the convex 
spines approximate at their roots directly on the highest 
point of the cranium. Looking to forward attention the 
anterior margins approximate closely half their length 
from below — to backward attention, the posterior margins 
do the same from above. These approximations give the 

ideal pose of correct earage 2 

Their texture should be fine, and transparent as to show 
the beautiful ramifications of "tiny" bloodvessels, tapering 
thin toward the tips, and not spoon-shaped. Externally 
they are moderately covered with fine hair of same shade 
as on the crown, free from ticking, nor encroaching on 

lacing around the tips •. 2 

Lacing must be jet-black, and begin at the convex break 
of the outer (anterior) margin, around the tip, and down 
the inner (posterior) margin at least one inch, or more. 
Lacing is densest on outer margin 2 10 

HEAD — Neatly and racily long, inclining to narrowness, and 
proportion of depth to length about 3 to 5 4 

NECK — Neat, firm, and free from pouchiness, known as dew- 
lap. A limited evidence of the latter in does when breed- 
ing does not disqualify. In bucks it does 4 

BODY — (a) Back. Must be free from projections, or de- 
pressions, and at the sacral (hip) joint should be nicely 
rounded body lateral and lengthwise. It should not end 
in a choppy rump; but outline a harmonious arch from the 
shoulder blades to the root of the tail. Coupling is long 
and graceful 4 

102 



(b) Sides. Must harmonize with back cui^vature; ribs 
nicely rounded and curved inward, more around the short 
(floating) ribs than the chest, so as to give the body a 
cylindrical form evenly outlined along spine and belly line ; 
flanks tucked up to give the shanks prominence and thus 
outline a typical racy profile. These should be no pouchi- 
ness of the abdomen — kangaroo-like — unless slightly ob- 
vious in matron does 4 

(c) Belly. Must not be pendulous or pouchy, but harmon- 
ize with the body curve characteristic of racy type 2 

(d) Fore-quarters. This embodies the chest, fore-should- 
ers, and breast proper, which must be full, strong and 
roomy for the inner organs, and gracefully balanced on the 
slender fore-legs. Shoulder blades nicely tapered toward 
their apposition at the spine but not protruding 
above it 4 

(e) Hind-quarters. Mean the hips and shanks, which must 
harmonize in grace with the fore-body. Hips must not 
protrude above the spine, and shanks will round out the 
curve of the back without choppy effect. Shanks must 
be strong, and prominent at the flank, tapering full and 
round toward the spine — with ideal "race-horse" effect, — 
not peaked 4 18 

FORE-LEGS— Must be straight and slender, but firm, and 
of comparatively long reach. Mature specimens should 
measure 5% to 6V2 inches from toe to shoulder joint. 
Toes straight and neat together 4 

HIND-LEGS — Are lengthy and strong, a bit heavier of bone 
than the fore-legs ; act and fold on a straight line with the 
body, and directly beneath it. It is important that they do 
not crouch forward (to enfold the fore-legs), nor back- 
ward to drop the abdomen 4 

TAIL — Must set straight and close to the back 2 

COLOR — Description of rufous Red. The term means brown- 
ish-red, but is designated by some as "golden tan." Tech- 
nically, it is a chestnut-brown, mellowed by the tinge of 
virgin gold. It is a difficult, but exceedingly rich color, and 
calls for keen judgment. It is the characteristic color of 
the Belgian Hare per se 

(a) Color of Head. Is rufous, but may show a very limited 
ticking, principally on the jowls. Under jaw a small patch 
of white or creamy white 2 

103 



(b) Color of Breast. A rich, deep rufous, entirely free 
from ticking, and blending harmoniously into the side color 
and down the fore-legs 2 

(c) Color of Body. Is rufous, modified in sections as fol- 
lows : Nape of neck a clean unmarred rich red, from which 
it grades into a denser (appearing) shade along the back, 
due to the black-tipped hair known as ticking; and to an 
even or trifle lighter tinge along and down the sides until 
it merges into the belly-white — the latter to be entirely 
beneath the line of vision at an angle of 45 degrees. Deep, 
rich rufous undercolor in all these sections is essential, and 
the more universally present "over all" is evidence of 
high breeding 8 

(d) Color of Fore-legs. Must be an extension of the deep 
rufous breast color to tips of toes. There must be no 
ticking or smudginess (appearance of smoke), and no 
white on toes 5 

(e) Color of Hind-Legs. Must be distinct rufous entirely 
long and around the legs to toe-tips. There should be no 
white from the knee-joint down on the inside or top, and 
no smudginess on the outside 5 

(f) Color of Belly. Is white tinged with rufous, giving 
a golden cream effect 3 

(g) Color of haunches. Should be a continuation of body 
color a possible two-third to three-quarter down the side, 
extending over the fore-shank to the knee. It is desirable 
to have as limited grey on the inferior shank as possible. 
A handsome effect of ticking is looked for, carried well 
down 5 30 

TICKING — Consists of the long red hair tipped jet black. 
It is required from the shoulders along the back to beyond 
the hips, beginning directly behind the shoulders with 
evenly distributed black-tipped hair and gradually grow- 
ing denser, until across the loin section it assumes a patchy 
aspect of wavy effect, extending over the superior portion 
of the haunches, down their sides, and down the back 

almost (or altogether) to the root of the tail 5 

NOTE — The matter of ticking to be of "wavy" or 
"patchy aspect" is open to a question of option by 
the classic breeder. Many prefer an evenly distrib- 
uted effect, with a gradual increase of density from 
fore to rear. It will be noted that the rufous color 
in evenly ticked specimens is richer and of a rarer 
"golden" tinge than in those of "patchy" effect. 

104 



CONDITION OF FUR— Should be compact and "close fit- 
ting," well set on, free from moult, and without blemishes 
or foreign-colored patches 5 

CONDITION OF FLESH— Should be firm and closely 
moulded to the bony frame — after the manner of a race- 
horse; and free from evidence of disease 5 

100 



Official Belgian Hare Standard 

Adopted by The National Pet Stock Association of America 

Points 
COLOR — Rich Rufous red (not dark smudgy color) carried 
well down sides and hind-quarters and as little white 
under-jaws as possible 20 

SHAPE — Body long, thin, well tucked up at flank and well 
ribbed up back, slightly arched loins, well rounded, not 
choppy; head rather lengthy, muscular chest, tail straight, 
not screwed; and altogether of racy appearance 20 

TICKING — Rather wavy appearance and plentiful 10 

EARS — About five inches long, thin and well laced on tips, 
and as far down the outside edge as possible. Good color 
inside and outside and well set on 10 

EYES — Hazel color, large, round, bright and bold . . , 10 

LEGS AND FEET— Fore feet and legs long, straight, slen- 
der, well-colored, and free from white bars 10 

Hindfeet — well colored, without dewlap 10 

SIZE — About eight pounds 5 

CONDITION— Perfectly healthy, not fat, but flesh firm like 
a race-horse, and a good quality of fur 5 

100 



105 



Feeding 



To be successful with hares depends perhaps more on prac- 
tical and common sense feeding than any other feature connected 
with their "bringing up." 

And on the other hand, I am safe in saying that more 
losses of stock are directly attributable to carelessness or possibly 
overzealousness, of it, than all other adversities. Indeed, the 
hare is by nature, so singularly free from disease (and vermin) 
in any form, that whatever ailments are encountered in various 
ways are nearly all traceable to some error in supplying food. 

Nearly every fancier, and breeder of some import, furnishes 
a circular or brochure in response to an application or sale of 
stock, and it is of considerable interest to read over the obvious 
instructions vouchsafed in it, particularly with regard to 
feeding. There are few directions in which all agree, and the 
variance is so great that a beginner must become seriously con- 
fused, with the chances of making mistakes very much in his 
favor. Then, too, what one reads in the several magazines which 
devote space to hare topics is also of such wide range of opin- 
ion that one at first sight must almost conclude that no fixed 
rule for feeding hares exists, and that each manages tolerably 
near according to his own notions. And, is such a conclusion far 
wrong, I trow ? 

One breeder speaks of green things with utter fear — almost 
dismay and uses only the littlest of little of it; another is more 
liberal, but conservative in quantity, while a third gives as much 
as the hares wish to eat, and all three get along without trouble, 
apparently. Some advise certain foods in the form of mash, any- 
way from soft to dry, others feed no mash at all. Then growing 
youngsters come in for special dieting up to a certain age, and 
again they come in just the same as the old ones. Thus opinions 
shift along, and the hares that don't die from over-attention may 
die for want of it, and the rest grow up. 

But, seriously, feeding should be managed along intelligent 
lines just as everything else — not overdone, nor underdone. 
Commonsense comes nearer being pleasing to the hares than too 
much concern or not enough. No matter what the creature may 
be that one takes up for either fancy or utility purpose — from 
the larger animals to the smaller pets — to be successful with 
their "bringing up" the first essential is some knowledge of their 
instincts and physical characteristics. In the case of the hare 
(or rabbit), we know how it lives in the wild state, and that its 

106 



domestication was a gradual advancement from that into its 
present, which should imply, that its food now cannot be greatly 
modified from what it finds when compelled to hunt for it — 
summer and winter. To know what this is should not be at all 
difficult; for a hare exists about exactly as a sheep would were 
the latter to seek food as an undomesticated animal. This holds 
good in the domestic state as well. Feed the hares as one feeds 
sheep, and there can't be much room for error. 

One instinctive characteristic of the hare, and which to me 
personally has been a guiding factor in the successful rearing of 
it, is that it prefers to feed at night. Unless annoyed, the hare 
in its wild state is quiet during the day, and the Belgian very 
much so if undisturbed, and sees no one. I make it a rule to have 
mine as little disturbed in daytime as possible, and in connection 
with this thought I will give my method of feeding, and the 
feed I use. 

My hares are never restless until approach of evening "meal 
time" which is invariably at sunset. Then they are fed sufficient 
that I know the stomach is full in the morning, and the days of 
long nights, I give but one mess in 24 hours. They are glad to 
see me in the morning, but not frantic for food, and all they get 
is a swish of clover hay, or every third day something green. 
With regard to the latter I am very particular that no medicinal 
plants are fed. By instinct, a hare does not eat them in the 
wild, but a domestic rabbit by being sometimes long deprived of 
greens, »occasionally forgets himself. Dandelion is injurious, and 
plantain should be fed only sparingly. Turnips and carrots are a 
good relish now and then; but hay-clover, alfalfa, or timothy is 
most I feed, both green and cured. Mash feed of any sort I don't 
use, nor milk at all. Pure water is the only liquid — twice a week 
in winter, and every day in summer. Once a week I mix a tea- 
spoon tincture of iron in half a bucket of water — a tonic in a 
way, and keeps them slick. So far I had no sickness among my 
stock. 

My regular feed for the substantial evening mess consists of 
bran, 1% parts; ground oats, 1 part; whole oats, 1 part; whole 
wheat, V2 part; cracked com, V2 part, and hominy, i/4 part, thor- 
oughly mixed. Young and old are fed alike, except as to quan- 
tity per animal. Of course, I expect many to differ with my 
method, and I shall not object. I have my reasons for feeding 
this way; my pets are happy, and healthy, and sleek as eels; and 
as said, were well since I have them. I might add that twice a 
week I mix a tablespoonful fine salt to four quarts of feed as an 
elementary essential. Some breeders keep a lump of rock-salt in 

107 



the run — a serious mistake I think — for salt is a poison in an over 
indulgence, and causes bowel trouble. I do no exhibiting at 
shows, but such as do, usually devote some extra attention to 
feeding in the hope of developing extra sheen in the "coat," 
and a brisker appearance in general. In England, this is done 
to quite some degree, and not a few enterprising parties advertise 
"just the thing to make you win." It is the same in this country 
and as a precaution wish to say that all "condition" feeds and 
powders are injudicious extras prepared from business motives, 
and buyers should know that the various cereals and vegetables 
which constitute the food of grain eating animals contain all 
the nutrient nature intended they should have. Feeds containing 
condiments or medicinal ingredients should always be used with 
discretion, and all mixtures of this sort that ever came under my 
notice were merely a combination of the grains usually fed in- 
dividually in a way, with either cottonseed meal, gluten in dis- 
guised form, or sugar obviously prepared, added, with all of 
which the well informed breeder is likely acquainted beforehand. 
These mixtures cost more than regular feed, but are they worth 
more? One important consequence should be persistently re- 
membered with regard to the use of prepared feeds — they usually 
contain stimulating material in some form — an un-natural effect 
upon flesh tissue — the re-action from which is always detrimental 
far in excess to the apparent benefit. The only safe line of 
correct feeding lies along the course laid out by the physiological 
laws in nature. 

A few paragraphs ahead I spoke of feeding no milk in any 
form to my stock. I don't like it, and found no occasion to do so. 
Many, however, do, and I do not wish to advise specially against 
the use of it as a food. I receive numerous inquiries along all 
lines of interest in breeding hares, and among them are many 
asking the advisability or propriety of using it for young and 
old stock. The great danger of feeding milk lies in chemical 
changes. That it is a good feed for young stock is true, but 
remember, young hares in the wild state don't have it after the 
mother forsakes them. Milk as a diet for young animals was 
not intended for them longer than the parent supplies it. If 
one does feed it after weaning the brood, great care is required 
that it is perfectly "fresh," and only so much given as will be 
consumed at once. Let none sour in the dish, for sour milk is 
acid, and causes what in hares is known as "slobbers" — a very 
annoying trouble. Remember, too, it is an animal fluid, and not 
identical to water as a liquid. Ptomaine poisoning is possible 
from it. If mixed with dry feed of any sort, be sure that the dry 

108 



feed contains nothing that will cause chemical changes in the 
milk. With these precautions in mind, it can safely be used as a 
feed. I have on several occasions noticed "directions" for feeding 
cabbage. Some eschew it as a poison for hares, while others 
feed it freely. It is not a poison, and the hares are fond of it, 
especially as a green food in winter; but, like all things, don't 
overfeed, and be sure it was not treated with a paris-green solu- 
tion against worms in its early growth; nor previously frozen. 

Potatoes I never feed, nor do the hares care for them. 
Boiled and crumpled in with dry feed, they should not be object- 
ionable; but I consider them too rich in starch unless fed very 
sparingly. Sweet-potatoes are not as rich in starch as "white," 
and are somewhat allied to carrots. I feed them sparingly when 
I have no carrots or turnips. Indeed, all greens should be fed 
with caution against excess. In summer time when clover is 
plenty, I feed it daily in conjunction with cured hay — mornings 
— ^but it must be fresh cut. Wilted grass, for obvious reasons, 
are objectionable. Because greens are so plenty during the sum- 
mer season there is grave danger in overfeeding bunny with it, 
and I have observed that paralysis is one of the results, by losing 
several valuable young on an occasion when I was called away 
professionally for three or four consecutive days, while the 
children enjoyed themselves "tending bunny while you was 'way, 
papa." 



109 



Hutches 



This means a chest, box, case, or bin, in which rabbits are 
kept. The little creatures are not at all particular as to dimen- 
sions, style, or expense laid out to keep them; but with hares, as 
with the care of all other animals, if one desires to get on well 
with them it is essential that they are kept with regard to com- 
fort and cleanliness. It does not matter, either, whether reared 
for fancy or utility purposes, comfort and cleanliness count as 
much for one as the other, because both are absolutely essential 
to bring up a beautiful animal as well as a useful one. 

The character of the hutches depends on the number of hares 
one intends to rear, and say any number upwards of twenty, the 
most ideal method is to have them side by side, so built with 
wire netting that they can see each other. The matter of size is 
optional, and should be arranged in harmony with the number to 
be kept in one compartment. Some breeders build their hutches 
one tier above the other, no doubt as a matter of economy for 
space. This method is objectionable for sanitary reasons, not- 
withstanding every effort to have the floor above unleakable 
tight. 

As said, with reference to feeding, so in this — keep as close 
to nature as one can possibly manage, and this implies, that a 
bare space on the ground is nearest right. Here again I will give 
my method of housing my pets — not essentially as an authority — 
but as information for the beginner. I keep a tier of four roomy 
hutches specially built for four breeding does. These I had made 
out of two piano boxes sawed in halves and set ends on, with each 
an outside run, making the room occupied by one doe 2^/^ x 3 in- 
side, and 3 X 4l^ outside, and 2 feet high along the lowest roof- 
line. The nest boxes are fastened on the outside along the back 
(entire length) a foot wide, and one and one-half high, with a 
sloping roof cover on hinges. Thus arranged, one can examine 
the nest without disturbing the doe, besides being convenient for 
cleaning. 

As a precaution against rats I built the floor one foot from 
the ground, and space partition and pen surrounding of one-inch 
mesh wire netting. The wood bottom floor is kept covered with 
straw inside, and outside with sand and fine straw. Of course, 
my breeding hutches are quite roomy to be occupied by a single 
doe to each compartment, and smaller spaces by one foot every 
way would answer nearly as well; but if you have the room to 
spare, make bunny happy with space for needful exercise, espec- 
ially for the babies up to weaning time. 

110 



It is a rule with me to breed at least two does a few days 
apart, so the young- can be penned together after removal from 
the mother. 

My large runs for the growing youngsters are so far, four 
in number, 2^^ feet wide, and 18 long, with a "hiding" box at the 
far end. These have ground floors covered with 2 inch mesh wire 
netting — no, they don't dig through this — they try it once, that's 
all. Besides these, I keep ten extra hutches — two for individual 
bucks, four for emergency, and four smaller ones for hospital 
purposes. I also have a prison for unruly tyrants. All these 
occupy a ground space of 24 x 30 feet, which is entirely covered 
with a roof of tar-paper fastened on skeleton frame-work as a 




protection from the elements and hot sun in summer, of course, 
strict attention is given to thorough disinfection aside from the 
regular cleaning. For this I use the commercial (crude) carbolic 
acid, which is sprinkled along the sides and comers, inside and 
out. Droppings are cleaned out every alternate day in summer 
and once a week in cold and freezing weather. In short, the 
hutches must be kept clean, dry, and disinfected, so I can go out 
any time, take up a bunny and handle it without soiling my hands 
or clothes. 

Now, this is my way of doing things, and as previously 
noted, no sickness has as yet given me trouble of any sort 

In England, the breeding of hares is recognized as a fancy, 
upwards of half a century, and in the past twenty years has re- 



111 



ceived more scientific attention than in any other country, and 
while individual breeders do not perhaps conduct rabbitries on so 
large a scale as some in America, there are more devoted to it. 
Special attention is given to the racy type so characteristic of 
the English wild hare, and to this end the hutches are built high, 
rather than wide and long. This is a commendable idea, and goes 
far toward obviating crouchiness, with the accompanying tend- 
ency to develop the objectionable dewlap. Various contrivances, 
also, are resorted to with a view to the devlopment of ideal points 
such as placing a board cross-wise in the run a foot or so high 
for jumping exercise, which is supposed to give length of limb, 
span from shoulder to sacrum (across hips), well set ears, and 
tuck-up of flank. Feed boxes are built to compel a stretch of the 




neck in order to reach the food, another factor toward creating 
length. Such adjuncts are of course, only novelties toward an 
end; but are indeed essential for obviating objectionable tenden- 
cies and training out desirable ones. Then, too, many fanciful 
ideas can be carried out in constructing hutches which go far to 
give the breeding an appearance of taste in commendable har- 
mony with the spirit implied by the term Fancy. 

Breeding on a large scale necessarily requires space com- 
mensurate with the number one quarter is to contain, and in all 
events must be so that the timid ones in a batch have room to 
evade the tyrants always found among it. Absolute freedom 
for exercise is an essential in utility breeding as well as fancy. 



112 



To breed on a small scale and with limited space, individual 
specimens should, if at all possible, never be given less room than 
4 feet long, l^^ wide and 2 to 3 high. This is, for such who desire 
only a few hares for occasional table use, and while rearing them 
thus they will do well when sensibly attended— in open or closed 
quarters— they do best of all with as much room as one can 
spare. 

A convenient indoor hutch (Fig. 1) is one 6 by 2 feet, with a 
movable partition dividing off a third of the space at one end 
for a nest and sleeping chamber. The partition has a smooth 
hole to permit passage of the animals from one part to the other. 
The front of the hutch has two doors, one of wire netting, the 
other of wood. The wooden door leads to the sleeping chamber 




ri G. 3 A Simple Movable Outdoor Hutch 



and should close tightly. It is best to use metal hinges for the 
doors. The partition may slide in a groove between the doors or 
may be put in and taken out through one of the door openings. 

Outdoor hutches should have sloping roofs and overhanging 
eaves to protect them from rain. The screen door should have 
a sliding cover of wood or be fitted with a removable cloth cover. 
Small holes bored near the top of the hutch will afford all neces- 
sary ventilation. 

Movable hutches (Fig. 2) have some advantages. They may 
be carried outdoor in fine weather and taiven back under shelter 
at night during storms. Long, narrow cleats projecting at both 
ends of the hutch are all that are needed to convert the ordinary 



113 



hutch into a movable one. Two forms of outdoor hutch sometimes 
used are shown in Figures 3 and 4. That in figure 3 has no floor 
except a wire screen, permitting the rabbits to eat grass. 

In conclusion of this topic on hutches allow me to emphasize 
again the positive necessity of cleanliness and disinfection, wheth- 
er the room occupied be large or small; for once sickness gets 
among a herd its eradication is often a serious trouble. An ex- 
cellent disinfection, as well as a point of cleanliness, is to white- 
wash all board-work with a lime solution strongly impregnated 
with crude carbolic acid and if a handful of salt is added to the 




lime while slaking hot, its "sticking" and lasting quality is great- 
ly enhanced. By following along the lines here explained, the 
housing of hares will be a matter of comfort and success, with 
every possible source of disease eliminated. 



114 



Ailments of Rabbits 

Rabbits of all kinds are remarkably free from diseases if 
they are properly cared for. With many years of breeding to my 
credit, I find that prevention is the best possible cure. There is 
too much coddling of rabbits and they are as a consequence, not 
hardy enough. If you have vigor and pay for the proper atten- 
tion to feeding, housing and sanitation, you will have little or no 
disease. Under no condition breed from stock that is suffering 
from snuffles, scurvy and vent disease. If you wish to build up a 
stud that will be permanent and a pleasure to you, it is absolutely 
necessary that you breed from specimens that are perfectly 
sound and healthy. 

We are preaching the gospel of fresh air and it is one of the 
very best preventions of many diseases. Above all, get busy and 
correct the first symptom of disease. As a general thing in the 
early stages it is easy to cure but after well seated it is almost 
impossible to affect a satisfactory cure. The most prevalent dis- 
ease is the sniffles. Common sense methods in selection and hous- 
ing has very materially reduced this disease and yet they are 
susceptible at all times to colds. When the first appearance of 
a cold or sneezing appears the specimens should be taken in hand 
at once. One of the very best remedies to administer is ten drops 
of Tincture of Aconite in the homeopathic form in a drink of 
water or milk. Rabbits suffering from snuffles should be kept in 
a warm, well ventilated hutch, well bedded with hay and thor- 
oughly disinfected. Easy digested foods should be given them. 
Boracic powder and iodoform powder in equal parts blown up 
the nostrils has been used with excellent results. 

SLOBBERS 

Indigestion is the cause and should be treated as follows: 
Take one tablespoonful each, chlorate of potash and powdered 
ginger, adding one pint of water; let stand tor a few hours, shake 
thoroughly and give teaspoonful doses twice a day. 

PARALYSIS 

There is no cure for this. You will find the animal dragging 
its hind quarters around the hutch as though the hip bones were 
broken. Kill at once and put it out of its misery. 

SKIN ERUPTIONS 

Treat these with an ointment made of equal parts of petrol- 
eum jelly and flour of sulphur, rubbing it well into the scurf. If 

115 



you are troubled with sore hocks resulting from dirty hutches, 
apply the same remedy. 

DIARRHEA 
Youngsters are particularly troubled with this disease after 
they have just been weaned. Sudden weather changes such as 
excessive heat or excessive cold will cause it and in some instan- 
ces is the result of fright. An abundance of green food, if too 
wet or stale, will often cause it. When the symptoms are first 
noticed, all green food should be removed and they should be fed 
on old clover hay and dry grains. Mix one teaspoonful of pulver- 
ized arrowroot in a teacupful of milk and give the specimen daily 
until the diarrhea is checked. Pine sawdust acts as a disinfectant 
and is a splendid floor covering and absorbent during this period. 

EAR CANKER 

This is a very troublesome disease and extremely painful to 
the animal. If proper attention was paid to cleanliness there 
would be little trouble along this line. The symptoms are a thick 
yellow discharge from the inside of one or both ears; the eye on 
the side that is affected appears to be very weak, with a slight 
discharge; the rabbit loses condition and does not relish its food. 
The discharge from the ear arises from ulceration in the deep 
recess, and is difficult to cure. Clear out the discharge by a little 
pressure and a sponge or soft rag soaked in warm water, but 
take care that none of the water falls into the ear. When dry, 
drop into the ear finely powdered and dry boracic acid, or equal 
parts of subnitrate of bismuth and finely-powdered iodoform. 
The head should be held on one side, and either of the powders 
dusted into the ears twice a day, introducing the powder as far 
as possible. The animal should be fed upon the best food; and 
extra care in this respect will be required for if the rabbit be- 
comes weak its chances of recovery will be very slight. 

INSECT PESTS 

Fleas are a constant source of worry to rabbits, especially to 
Lops. Any good insect powder well worked into the skin will rid 
the specimens of these pests. After thoroughly dusting and rub- 
bing it well into the coat, it is well to use a small tooth comb to 
remove them. A splendid insect powder is made of equal parts 
of Persian insect powder and tobacco powder well worked 
together. 

RUNNING AT THE EYES 

This is a common disease but is easily cured by placing a 
little zinc ointment on the eye-ball, closing the lid over it and 

116 



I 



working it in well. If you have a stubborn case, dissolve a table- 
spoonful of boracic powder in a pint of boiling water and when 
cold bathe the eyes thoroughly. If any running sores develop, 
iodoform ointment will give immediate relief. 

CONSTIPATION 

This can readily be overcome by feeding an abundance of 
green stuff and cutting out the corn and hay, feeding only a 
meal mash, to which a little boiled linseed has been added. If no 
response to this treatment, give half a teaspoonful dose of syrup 
of buck thorn daily until again normal. 

SKIN TROUBLES 

There are a number of forms of skin trouble resulting in 
bald patches. This should not be neglected for many valuable 
specimens have been ruined in this way. Cantharides ointment 
will kill the parasite and assist the fur to grow. 

ABORTION 

The prevention of abortion is difficult. Disinfect the hutches 
thoroughly and do not feed flowers of sulphur during the breed- 
ing seasons. 

VENT GLEET 

The cause of the disease has not as yet been thoroughly 
worked out. I am convinced that it is similar to gonorrhea in the 
human family. Isolate the specimen, disinfect the hutch from 
which it was removed. Give 30 grains Epsom Salts and twice a 
day inject a 4 per cent, solution of cocaine and immediately after 
a solution of nitrate of silver, 4 grains to the ounce. The fifth 
day commence a small copabia capsule daily and inject acetote of 
lead, 1 drachm to the pint, fed rather low and dust any sore 
places outside with iodoform. Under no consideration, breed 
an animal showing the slightest symptoms of this disease. 



117 



Preparation for the Show Room 

The inherent desire within the breast of man is to produce 
something just a little better than his brother, to show it just a 
little better than his brother, and to win just a few more blue 
ribbons in keen competition, in the show room. 

Preparation in many instances means success. There was a 
time a few years ago when the breeder could rush to his hutches, 
grab up a few rabbits, throw them into a basket and send them to 
the show room and win wdth them; but that day is past. It is 
absolutely necessary to show every animal in as good condition 
as possible. Over crowding is conducive to all sorts of trouble 
and should be carefully avoided. Again, over-showing results in 
a long chain of ills that are exceedingly difficult to overcome. 
These two failings (and they are often the result of thoughtless- 
ness) have hindered the success of more fanciers than anything 
else we know of. Every care should be exercised in the selec- 
tion for show purposes, being careful to apply the Standard 
strictly and select specimens that exhibit a general set of select- 
ed points. 

The animal should be long and thin, both in body and limbs. 
The ears should be long and carried well backward. There should 
be practically no ticking at the selection age, say three or four 
months. The hind feet should be level in color, the same being 
carried well up the hock. One mistake is often made in selecting 
specimens that show choppiness, but my advice is to get rid of 
these at all cost. You have here a small gauge to select promis- 
ing youngsters by. After having made your selection they 
should be placed in large, roomy hutches, fed on stimulating diet 
and should have every care and attention paid them. Don't mis- 
understand this to apply to all varieties of rabbits, for it is my 
intention to apply the above one to the Belgian hare. What 
would be necessary in the selection of the Belgian hare would be 
fatal to a Flemish Giant. Condition, however, must not be mis- 
understood. It does not represent fat or bulky station. It ap- 
peals to me as a means whereby specimens exhibited may be 
shown in a state representing a high standard of excellence, con- 
sisting with the points of the variety. 

In all varieties shape must be given first consideration and 
it is absolutely necessary that youngsters be given as much 
exercise as possible. It is well to construct a running hutch with 
a jumping board across the middle, compelling them to race 
around the hutch and in jumping over the hurdle they will harden 

118 



the flesh and decrease the size of the stomach. The exercise, too, 
is also important to increase the length of limb. Many English 
breeders in preparing choice youngsters for exposition, or when 
the specimens are under a great strain, advocate the use of egg 
flip. A simple way to make it is to beat up three eggs with a 
little moist sugar, gently adding a pint and a half of milk, beat- 
ing it together thoroughly and give each rabbit a teacupful for 
the evening meal. While for the morning meal, give a little 
green stuff and the best oats and wheat mixed, two-third oats, 
and one-third wheat, while a little clover hay should be added to 
the morning or midday meal. 

One of the great secrets of success is in proper grooming. 
With the short coated varieties a thorough rub with the bare 
hands, following it up with a dry chamois skin, is all that is nec- 
essary. There is nothing better than a low table to use for 
grooming. Cover it with a piece of carpet or clean sack, nailing 
it down so that the specimen may have something to grip on to 
with his feet. You will find this a comparatively easy way to 
groom them. When the specimens are moulting they should be 
groomed at least once a day and their housing should be care- 
fully looked after for they are very susceptible to cold at this 
time. Place the specimen on the table and vigorously rub the 
coat in the direction in which it lies and persevere until all the 
loose coat is removed, finishing off with briskly rubbing the speci- 
men all over with a dry chamois skin. Belgian hares need a little 
attention to the fore legs when moulting its young coat. It 
should be held firmly by the ears and the other hand should be 
used to pull the legs one at a time, allowing the hand to slip 
so that all the loose fur may be removed. Under no considera- 
tion resort to plucking for this is altogether outside the province 
of grooming and can at once be detected by any competent judge 
and the specimen would be disqualified. Specimens thus handled 
have the advantage of not only being well groomed but at the 
same time, well trained and this is absolutely necessary for suc- 
cess in the show room. There is nothing more trying to a judge 
than to have a wild, restless, untrained specimen to handle, and 
in many instances specimens have gone down that if properly 
handled before the show, would have been easy winners. 



119 



A Few Short Rules that Would be 
Well to Follow, Are: 

1 — Be as quiet in the rabbitry as possible. 

2 — Exclude all strange dogs. 

3 — Avoid entering the rabbitry about mid-day, because at 
that time the inmates are generally asleep, and prefer quiet. 

4 — Be as regular as possible in the time of feeding. 

5 — Be equally so as to the days for thorough cleaning. 

6 — When any offensive smell is perceived in any hutch, find 
out the cause, and apply a remedy. 

7 — Never allow the first symptoms of any complaint or dis- 
ease to be neglected, for all ailments are more easily cured when 
treated at once. 

8 — Separate any diseased rabbit from the others as soon as 
discovered. 

9 — Frequently "look over" your stock yourself. 

10 — Examine the noses, eyes, and roots of ears, also the 
internal ear, to detect any appearance of scurf, mange, or ear 
gum. 

11 — Let the air of the rabbitry be renewed as frequently as 
possible, to insure health of inmates. 

12 — Keep the temperature of the rabbitry as genial and 
equable as possible. 

13 — Keep the feeding dish for suckling does constantly re- 
plenished, as the animals require more nourishment during 
that time. 

14 — In proportion to the number of rabbits the doe has been 
suckling, so regulate the time for her pairing again. 

15 — If the litters are too frequent the stock will be weak. 
Quality and quantity are both important, but one must be subser- 
vient to the other. 

16 — Avoid handling young rabbits, especially when in the 
nests. 

17 — Exclude mice from the hutches or rabbitry if possible, 
for one mouse may cause the does to neglect their young ones. 

18 — Never leave the rabbits to the care of inexperienced at- 
tendants. One day's ignorance as to their wants may perman- 
ently injure the stock. 

120 



19 — If the rabbits are to be improved in condition, use little 
or no green food. 

20 — Never give green food wet. 

21 — So called "cheap" food is more expensive than the ap- 
parently dearer, which is more nutritious. The most wholesome 
saves both the pocket and the rabbits, as six months' trial will 
prove. 

22 — Use as few artificial means as possible in the rearing 
and management of your rabbits. 

23 — Protect them from a damp and foggy atmosphere as 
much as possible, as such is more injurious than a dry cold one. 

24 — Make a study of your rabbits, as to their habits and 
requirements, and experience, which will enable you to become 
a successful fancier, will be speedily gained. Never forget that 
rabbits are not the offensive creatures some persons would have 
you believe. In a well-arranged rabbitry, where the health and 
comfort of the rabbits are studied, there is little or no disagree- 
able smell. 



121 



The Cavy 

(Courtesy The Pet Stock World Company, Baltimore) 

HABITAT-DESCRIPTION 

The cavy, or guinea pig, as it is commonly known, is the 
name applied to several South American rodent animals included 
in the "cavidae" family, but naturalists apply it, perhaps more 
properly, to the genus "cavia". 

The cavy, in its wild state, is distributed over an extensive 
area of South America and is represented by several species; the 
more common being the aperea or cobaya (restless cavy) of 
Brazil; the Bolivian cavy, boliviensis, found at great elevations 
in the Andes Mountains; the Brazilian rock-cavy, cavia rupes- 
tris, characterized by its short blunt claws, and the Peruvian 
cavia cutleri, which is supposed to have been tamed by the Incas, 
the reigning aristocratic and priestly caste of Ancient Peru, be- 
tween 1240 and 1523. This theory seems quite plausible when we 
consider the marvelous development of the Llama which is ac- 
credited to the Incas, who regarded this animal as royal prop- 
erty, and almost as sacred as to India its white elephant. 

The early history of the cavy is so veiled in mystery that 
it is questionable whether our common guinea pig descended 
from the specie known as cavia porcellus or cavia aperea of 
Brazil, the cavia cobaya, or the Peruvian cavia cutleri. Its in- 
troduction into Europe after the conquest of Peru by the Span- 
iards warrants the conclusion that it must have been the pet of 
the remarkable people that inhabited the fabled gold-laden 
country of the Andes. 

The name "guinea pig" appears to be a misnomer of un- 
known origin, some authorities conjecturing that it is a cor- 
ruption of guinea pig; others that it was derived from the as- 
sociation with the English coin "guinea," for which it is said 
to have been sold in England during the sixteenth and seven- 
teenth centuries; and still others that the word "guinea" merely 
signifies foreign. 

Because of its great fecundity and the ease which it yields 
to experiment the fancier has taken a keen interest in this little 
creature, and since the middle of the nineteenth century wonder- 
ful strides have been made in perfecting it to the standard which 
man thinks Nature should have adopted in its natural law of 
selection. From the vari-colored wild animal the patient fancier, 
aided by "Father Time", has produced a dozen distinct colors and 

122 



combinations of the rarest hues, as well as the most freakish 
abnormalities, from Nature's standpoint, in its shape and length 
of coat. It has risen from its insignificance and humble wander- 
ing life among aquatic plants in marshy districts, and the 
crags in the mountain sides of South America, to the distinc- 
tion of being groomed and petted by the aristocracy of the 
British Empire and other leaders of society throughout the civ- 
ilized world. 

VARIETIES 

This subject is one that should stand foremost in our 
mind's eye. Too many of us forget the IDEAL, or the Standard 
of Perfection, which we should follow as our guide, and instead 
dote on some particular shade of color, shape or setting of ears, 
or "buffalo" shoulders, and forget the AVERAGE of all points 
for which we should strive. 

ENGLISH 

The structure of the English cavy is described by Mr. House 
as follows: "The English cavy must be cobby. Its head large 
and chubby, with a good Roman nose; the eyes should be bold, 
bright and prominent; the neck short, with great depth of 
shoulder; the back broad and massive, with well-formed hind- 
quarters; the ears should be well set on, and droop gracefully, 
not enough to be styled umbrellas, but just a nice, well-turned 
droop. Prick ears give a rat-like appearance to the head. The 
coat should in all varieties be short, perfectly smooth, and very 
soft and silky to the touch." 

In this variety we have, at present, six self or solid colors: 
black, red, cream, white, chocolate and blue. The last two 
colors are still in their infancy, although considerable progress 
has been made in perfecting the same. 

In the broken or vari-colored, are the tortoise-shell (black 
and red), tortoise-shell and white (black, red and white), Dutch, 
«jrolden Agouti, Silver Agouti, Himalayan, and Brindle. A steady 
advance is also being made in producing such combinations as 
agouti, red and white; chocolate, red and white; and cinnamon 
colored. These, when eventually perfected, will create quite an 
interest, as they are most difficult to produce. 

The BLACK cavy should be of the intense blackness of the 
Raven, full of lustre, with a fine, sleek coat. It is an easy matter 
to obtain a good outer coat, but the deep black color should 
extend to the skin. 

125 



The RED cavy is described by some as a "rich, bright 
orange," and by others as a "tomato red". The greatest care 
should be exercised to keep out the mahogany color. 

The CREAM should be just as its name indicates. The Eng- 
lishman calls it "Devonskire" cream. It should not be too dark, as 
many of the creams are too near an orange color, rather than 
cream. 

The WHITE should be snowy white, with white ears and 
pink eyes. Being albinos, they almost invariably breed true to 
color, and when so bred they usually have very pretty ears. But 
when crossed with a dark colored pig the ears will have a dirty 
appearance. This should be avoided. 

The CHOCOLATE cavy should be the color of a fresh cake 
of chocolate; uniformly colored over entire body, including ears, 
feet and toenails. The color should extend down the full length 
of the hair, right to the skin. 

The BLUE is not only the latest color produced in the self 
varieties, but the least perfected as well. The shades thus far 
presented are too slaty, and appear to be no more than faded 
black. When finally perfected this will be one of the most 
beautiful colors obtainable in cavies. 

The TORTOISE-SHELL is a rarity in the United States, and 
in fact I learn that it is not as popular in England as the TOR- 
TOISE-SHELL AND WHITE. In the former the colors should 
be red and black, while in the latter white is added. There should 
be absolutely no brindling of colors, that is to say, intermixing, 
and the patches should be as numerous and uniform as possible. 
The tortoise-shell and white may have a one, two or three-colored 
face. 

The DUTCH and HIMALAYAN should be marked similar to 
the rabbits of the same colors. The former has been bred for a 
longer period than the latter, hence has reached a higher state 
of perfection. The "Ideal Dutch Cavy" illustrated herein gives 
an excellent idea as to the beauty of this little creature if it 
could be perfectly produced. In the Himalayan all ends should 
be of some solid color other than white, while the rest of the 
body should be snowy white, free from brindling. 

AGOUTI is the name applied to the variety whose color has 
been copied from the wild Agouti or "Cotia," in Portuguese, 
native of Brazil. The wild agouti and cavy are not related, only 
the color of the former having attracted the inventive and imita- 

126 



tive eye of the fancier. This variety made its first appearance in 
the Crystal Palace Show, London, in 1888. It is bred in two com- 
binations, golden and grey, or silver. The former should be of 
a rich golden brown, while the latter a silvery grey, both evenly 
ticked on top, sides, chest and feet, but void of ticking on belly. 
In the golden agouti the belly should be rich, deep red; while in 
the silver agouti a pearl grey color should be attained. 



STANDARD OF POINTS 

ENGLISH-SELFS 

Points 
COLOR — Solid and carried down to the roots of the hair; 

ears and feet must match the body color 25 

EARS — Color to match body, shapely and well carried 15 

EYES— Large, bold , 10 

SHAPE — Short, cobby body, deep broad shoulders, Roman 

nose 20 

FEET— Sound in color, to match body 10 

COAT— Short and silky 10 

CONDITION 10 

100 
ENGLISH-TORTOISE-SHELL 

Points 

PATCHES— Clear and distinct 45 

EYES— Large and bold 10 

COAT— Short and silky 10 

SIZE, SHAPE AND CONDITION— Similar to Selfs 20 

COLOR — Black and Red, equally distributed in distinct 
patches, the smaller and more uniform, tiie better 15 

100 
ENGLISH-TRICOLOR 

(Tortoise and White, and any combination of three colors) 

Points 

PATCHES— Clear and distinct 25 

DISTRIBUTION— Equal, placing of patches uniform 10 

COLOR of each patch distinct without brindling 20 

SHAPE— Similar to Selfs 15 

EYES and EARS— Similar to Selfs . j 10 

CONDITION AND COAT 10 

SIZE 10 

100 
129 / ' 



ENGLISH-HIMALAYANS 

Points 

NOSE MARKINGS— Well carried up to eye 15 

FEET MARKINGS— Well carried up 10 

EAR MARKINGS— Down to base 10 

DENSITY of markings 20 

PURITY OF WHITE . 15 

EYES — Large and bright, and of a reddish color 10 

SHAPE— Similar to Self s 10 

CONDITION 10 

100 
ENGLISH-AGOUTI— (Golden and Silver) 

Same requirements as Self Cavy, except ticked color. 

ENGLISH-BRINDLE— (Black and Red Intermixed) 

Same requirements as Self Cavy. 

ENGLISH-DUTCH 

Points 

BLAZE AND CHEEKS 15 

CLEAN NECK 10 

SADDLE 10 

UNDERCUT 10 

FEET STOPS 15 

EARS 10 

EYES 5 

COLOR 10 

SIZE, SHAPE, CONDITION (same as Selfs) 15 

100 
PERUVIAN 

The Peruvian Cavy doubtless originated in the same country 
as the English Cavy. It is the common belief that its outward 
characteristics were developed in France, and later improved by 
the English pioneer fanciers. Length of coat, head furnishings, 
and texture or silkiness of coat are the principal points for which 
the Peruvian admirer strives. The importance of these three 
characteristics may be appreciated when we consider that fifty- 
five points out of a possible hundred are allotted to them in the 
Standard. The Peruvian is larger than the English or the 
Abyssinian, while the head alone is proportionately not so large 
as in the other varieties. The colors produced in this variety are 
the same as in the other two. 

130 




PERUVIAN CAVY 



STANDARD OF POINTS 

Points 
SWEEP— (Length of Rear Coat)— Of as uniform length 

over all as possible . 15 

DENSITY OF COAT 15 

TEXTURE OR SILKINESS OF COAT 15 

SIDE SWEEP OF HAIR, as long as possible 15 

COLOR — (Selfs, free from stray hairs; broken, as uniform- 
ly colored as possible, according to classes) 10 

CONDITION 15 

HEAD FURNISHINGS— Fringe should fall well over face, 
and shoulders should be furnished that it falls in a thick 
mane 15 

100 

ABYSSINIAN 

The Abyssinian, like the Peruvian, did not derive its name 
by any geographical association and undoubtedly emanated from 
the same source as all other cavies. It has been steadily im- 
proved both in harshness of coat and the number of rosettes, 
which are its principal characteristics. The more numerous the 
rosettes, the better; as many as fifteen, and rarely more, having 
been produced on a single cavy. Sixty points out of a hundred 
are devoted to rosettes, coat, and head furnishings, while only 20 
points are allowed for size and shape. The attention to coat, 
should therefore, be paramount. 

STANDARD OF POINTS 

Points 
ROSETTES — Each to rise and radiate evenly all round from 
a clearly defined centre without any break or gap, and to 
be distributed regularly all over the body; the greater 
the number the better, providing that each is clear and 
distinct, without guttering or running into each other .... 25 
COAT — Short, harsh and wiry in texture, with erect mane 
running right down the back from shoulders to rump, and 
without flatness or softness of any kind; the scruff or 
collar to stand erect and pass right round the shoulder 

without a break 20 

COLOR— Clear and bright, with plenty of lustre 10 

SHAPE — Short and cobby, not flat-sided; limbs well formed 
and closely set, without any narrowness or snippiness, with 
plenty of depth in shoulders and hindquarters 15 

133 



HEAD — Wide and of fair length; nose very prominent, with 
well-developed moustache, and covered with harsh, erect 

coat on cheeks 15 

EYE— Large, full and bright 5 

CONDITION— Coat close and thick, flesh firm and hard 10 

100 

PERUVIAN SILKIES— (Pseudo Angora) 

Points 

FACE AND HEAD — Same as smooth; short Roman nose ... 20 

EYES— Large, bold 10 

EARS — Drooping, but not lopped 10 

LENGTH AND STRAIGHTNESS of hair 20 

TEXTURE AND DENSITY of hair 15 

SIZE 10 

CONDITION 5 

COLOR 10 

100 



134 



We beg to acknowledge the assistance so kindly 
given us in the preparation of this book by Mr. Wm. 
I. Lyon, President of The National Pet Stock Associ- 
ation of America. We are also greatly indebted to 
the American Fur Fanciers Association for the privi- 
lege to use their Cavy illustrations, copy and Stand- 
ard of Points. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



002 845 747 9 



